Cantina, the Taco Bell chain’s much-hyped Manhattan “urban footprint” debut, failed to ring my bell — even with cheap booze and a feeble attempt to emulate big-city grit. With nearly 6,000 outlets around the US, Taco Bell is the belle of fast-food giant Yum! Brands’ $6 billion annual-revenue ball. The megachain’s new Taco Bell Cantinas...