Restaurant review: Ayawaska Hilltop brings Peruvian food with views to Novato
The impressive entrance to the Peruvian Ayawaska Hilltop restaurant in Novato, formerly Hilltop 1892, leads you up the hill, past the stairs (and handicap accessible ramp) to the front door, where you’re met by the valet parkers who give you a friendly smile and explain the parking is free. A nice welcome. I wish I’d had my car washed recently. A complete detailing is really in order.
As we climbed the ramp, the clink of forks against plates and voices of many happy diners intensified. It was a Friday night and the the restaurant, which opened last summer after an extensive remodel, was packed. I was glad I’d made our reservation early in the week.
We were shown to our table on the tiled-floor sun porch with large windows looking out toward the southwest and expansive views. It was a cool evening and the fog was just beginning to creep in from the Pacific.
Setting our attention to the cocktail menu, my friend chose the traditional Peruvian cocktail Pisco Sour ($15) and I, intrigued by both the name and the ingredients, ordered !Vamos Boys¡ ($16).
Pisco is to Peru what cognac is to France. It’s a brandy that’s made from Peruvian grapes brought from the Canary Islands by the Spanish as they passed by the islands on their way to the New World. The Mollar and Negra Criolla grapes arrived, naturally crossed and created Quebranta grapes, which are often used to make pisco.
The Pisco Sour arrived in a little tumbler. Well balanced with a frothy top and traditional garnish of bitters, it was delicious.
My cocktail, composed of pisco, Fiorente elderflower, vermouth, Tio Pepe sherry, cider and blackberries, could have gone way wrong but absolutely did not. The ingredients came together so tastily with nothing sticking out akimbo. I would have loved to have had a second.
Several of the cocktails come in whimsical containers, like the Tulum ($16) in a brightly painted skull head and the Ayawaska Colada ($22) in a shiny brass pineapple. There were several other cocktails I’d like to try another time. If all of their ingredients meld as nicely as my cocktail, it would be a pleasure. Also, it would be fun to see what other fun containers they’re presented in.
Ayawaska’s food presentations are photogenic, too. Ceviche Clasico ($22) arrived in a deep, round, aqua marine platter. A pile of small, toothsome cubes of rock fish ceviche was centered in the bowl with choclo, large kernels of Peruvian corn, to one side and crunchy corn kernels to the other. A bright orange slice of sweet-spiced sweet potato divided them. The flavorful potato was so amazing we wished we could order a whole plate of them. The fish and vegetables sat in a shallow pool of the creamy-colored “leche de tigre” marinade.
A flurry of pickled red onions caps the dish. The ceviche is reason enough to return often to Ayawaska.
The three fried Empanadas de Lomo ($16) were crispy, blistered and liberally filled with beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes, potato and cilantro. They were so well seasoned they really didn’t need the accompanying rocoto aioli but that didn’t keep us from dipping into it over and over. Rocoto chilies are pretty hot but the aioli wasn’t. My dinner companion, who is sensitive to spicy hot foods, didn’t find it off putting. I, on the other hand, really like spicy foods, so I must keep that in mind to temper my evaluation of heat in food.
Other empanadas on the menu include one with chicken ($15) and a vegetarian version ($14).
Our main plates, Aji de Gallina ($24) and Arroz con Mariscos ($28) arrived quickly, seemingly too quickly to have been assembled for our order. The servings were large and there were lots of seafood in the Arroz con Mariscos, but the texture was too soft. While Aji de Gallina is basically a sauce with poached chicken strips poured over rice, the version we were served was all mixed together, echoing the same texture as the mariscos. Other options ($24 to $36) include a gluten-free Adobo de Cerdo, slow-cooked pork, and Second de Carne, a traditional Peruvian beans and braised short rib stew.
Time for dessert. Of the 12 options, all $14, the Alfajor con Helado seemed enticing. Unfortunately, the Peruvian shortbread cookie didn’t have a lot of flavor even with the dulce de leche filling which, contrary to the generosity of the other menu items, was very thinly spread. There’s a choice of vanilla or lucuma ice cream served with the cookie.
A more satisfying dessert was Suspiro a la Limeña, which arrived in a little glass stoppered jar. The name translates as the “sighs of a lady from Lima.” This was a thinnish egg custard made with dulce de leche and topped with a meringue flavored with port. Like the lady’s sighs, it’s sweet and light. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Ann Walker is a North Bay freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.
Ayawaska Hilltop
Address: 850 Lamont Ave., Novato
Phone: 415-944-2066
Website: ayawaskasf.com
Cuisine: Authentic Peruvian cuisine
Noise level: High
Liquor selection: Full bar
Corkage: $35
Vegan dishes: Yes
Gluten-free selections: Yes
Organic offerings: Yes
Dog friendly: Patio
Parking: Free valet
Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; Noon to 10 p.m. Fridays; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekends
Prices: $11 to $36
Reservations: Yes
Summary: A fun place to enjoy well-made cocktails and delicious Peruvian appetizers.