Taste-Off: The best oat milk (and the worst) for vegans and lactose-intolerant folks

Oat milk has become the third most popular non-dairy milk on the market, but there's a wide range between the good ones and the terrible options.

Being vegan or lactose-intolerant once meant suffering through awful plant-based milk alternatives. That’s definitely not the case now, especially when it comes to oat milk, the newest favorite on the very well-stocked, alternative dairy shelf.

Unlike so many plant-based milks that taste like the nut, seed or vegetable from which they are made, oat milk is so much like cow’s milk in both flavor and texture that it can be used in everything from coffee and smoothies to soups and sauces.

Compared to cow’s milk, oat milk is lower in fat, higher in carbs and has a bit more calcium; but it delivers substantially less in terms of protein and nutrients. That said, the nutrition details don’t seem to trouble consumers, as oat milk now ranks as the third most popular non-dairy milk.

A tasting of 12 brands of oat milk proves that making delicious, appealing milk from oats is not simple. The oats have to be properly soaked, drained and expertly strained in order to avoid gritty texture. The milk must then be enhanced with just the right amount of flavorings, thickeners and stabilizers to create clean flavor and luscious, creamy texture.

The best oat milk is creamy and tastes fresh, with a subtle sweet note. Sadly, far too few oat milks on store shelves hit the mark. Bad oat milk is viscous, gritty or laced with murky flavors that range from burnt to bitter.

Here’s the lowdown on the oat milk cartons that deserve space in your fridge — and the awful concoctions to avoid. Nutrition info refers to one cup.

Chobani Original Oat

Clean, rounded flavor and smooth mouthfeel makes this an awesome choice for those who love cow’s milk but must opt out. 110 calories, 5 g fat, 105 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 2 g protein. $7.99 for 96 ounces at Safeway. (4 stars)

Oat-ly Oat-milk

This rich milk is an excellent plant-based stand-in. It’s smooth, creamy and has just the right touch of sweetness to mimic the flavor of lactose. 120 calories, 5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 3 g protein. $5.99 for 64 ounces at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Forager Project Organic Dairy-free Oatmilk

A touch of cashew and coconut give this milk a subtle earthy flavor. It’s delicious and pleasant, but not a dead ringer for cow’s milk. 130 calories, 5 g fat, 65 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, no protein. $6.99 for 48 ounces at Whole Foods. (3½ stars)

Open Nature Original Non-Dairy Oat Beverage

Appealingly white and smooth, this milk is so like low-fat cow’s milk and so perfectly strained that it’s hard to tell the difference. 100 calories, 3.5 g fat, 125 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 2 g protein. $4.49 for 59 ounces at Safeway. (3½ stars)

Trader Joe’s Non-Dairy Oat Beverage

Those who prefer a thick, creamy milk will appreciate the velvety mouthfeel of this. It pours like whole milk and has a touch of grit, but the flavor is a standout. 90 calories, 5 g fat, 170 mg sodium, 9 g sugar, 2 g protein. $3.99 for 64 ounces. (3 stars)

Organic Oat Malk

Fans of skim milk may enjoy this pour. It’s clean and tastes like fresh oats. 90 calories, 1.5 g fat, 190 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 3 g protein. $5.99 for 28 ounces at Sprouts. (3 stars)

Silk Oat

A wallop of vanilla makes this a fine choice for cereal or coffee, but don’t make the mistake of using it in a savory dish. 120 calories, 5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 1 g protein. $4.99 for 64 ounces at Smart & Final. (2½ stars)

365 Original Oatmilk Beverage

Poor filtering and no attention to appearance make this a poor choice. There’s nothing wrong with the flavor, but the “milk” is brown and grainy. 120 calories, 5 g fat, 140 mg sodium, 7 g sugar, 3 g protein. $4.19 for 64 ounces at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

Three Trees Organic Oat & Seed Oatmilk

To label this “oat” milk is inaccurate. Oats are in the mix, but it tastes like sunflower seeds. 130 calories, 5 g fat, 35 mg sodium,  3 g sugar, 7 g protein. $6.99 for 28 ounces at Sprouts. (1½ stars)

Planet Oat Oat Milk

Kudos for making a low-calorie, sugar-free drink, but this tastes like water — and the slimy texture is reminiscent of the liquid in a can of beans, and the solids settle in the glass within minutes of pouring. 45 calories, .5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, no sugar, 1 g protein. $4.79 for 52 ounces at Lucky. (½ a star)

Califia Farms Zero Sugar Oatmilk

It’s unclear what went wrong with this milk, but it tastes like over-toasted sunflower seeds. Steer clear of this one. 100 calories, 4.5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, no sugar, 1 g protein. $5.99 for 48 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)

Good Karma Kids Plantmilk

It’s tough to picture any kid choking down this bitter blend of oat and pea protein. It delivers a generous dose of vitamins — if it’s actually swallowed. 110 calories, 5 g fat, 140 mg sodium, 5 g sugar, 8 g protein. $5.99  for 58 ounces at Sprouts. (No stars)

Pacific Foods Organic Original Oat

This disgusting brown potion tastes like syrup gone wrong. 130 calories, 2 g fat, 105 mg sodium, 17 g sugar, 4 g protein. $4.49 for 32 ounces at Whole Foods. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.