Cramps Thwarting the Send? Dehydration Isn’t the Only Possible Culprit.
Why do some people take Tums for cramps while other people drink pickle juice? And why, in most cases, are bananas utterly unhelpful?
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You’ve been climbing all day, or it’s hot, or you’re tired, or you’re doing a style of climbing you’re not used to and…. your forearms or hamstrings or biceps start cramping. Some people would advise you to swallow some salt tablets. Some would advise you to eat a banana. The legendary Yosemite speed climber Hans Florine personally prefers Tums—citing the presence of calcium, which is an electrolyte. But the reality is that cramping—a sudden shortening or contraction of your muscles—can be symptomatic of a number of different causes, and your ability to treat or prevent a cramp is largely reliant on your ability to diagnose its root cause, which can vary according to individual body compositions and external circumstances.
By understanding why you’re cramping, you may be able to troubleshoot your cramps and prevent them in the future. Here are some reasons for cramping, based on current research:
Reason #1: Dehydration/electrolyte imbalance
Dehydration is probably the most commonly cited cause of cramps—yet people still get it wrong all the time. I’ve heard of many people who eat bananas for cramping. But that banana won’t save you unless you’re cramping from glycogen depletion (see theory #4). If you’re cramping from dehydration, potassium is the least of your concerns. It’s sodium that needs replacing, because it’s sodium chloride that is lost in the greatest amount in your sweat. Heat increases your risk of cramping because it increases the rate at which we sweat.
The solution: Drink fluids with electrolytes; at least eight ounces per hour.
Reason #2: Altered neuromuscular control
When cramping occurs toward the end of a workout, in active, shortened muscles, it can be the result of nervous system alterations and over-excitation of the alpha motor neurons. I’m pretty sure this is what happened to me when I placed basically my entire body weight on my big toe while in the drop-knee position after climbing hard for hours. My muscles told me, “Hard pass on that one, time to cramp.”
The solution: Understand where your physical limits currently are; slow your pace, decrease your intensity, and train to increase your capacity. If you do start cramping, pause and stretch.
Reason #3: Fatigue
Fatigue causes cramps when we’re deconditioned—i.e. not in shape for the intensity or duraction of the activity we’re engaged in. Lack of sleep can also contribute to this, as can heat and humidity.
The solution: Increase activity-specific conditioning; strength train muscles that cramp often to correct imbalances; get enough sleep; build in recovery days.
Reason #4: Glycogen depletion
Glycogen depletion is another cause of cramping. Glycogen is a storage form of sugar (energy) in your skeletal muscles and liver. As you exercise, glycogen gets broken down and used to fuel muscle contractions and keep blood sugar stable. During long climbing days, glycogen stores can become depleted. If muscles run out of fuel, they may cramp. There’s a growing body of evidence that climbers are in general an under-fueled bunch, at risk for Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S).
The solution: Eat enough from day-to-day to support training and basic body functioning. Fuel regularly throughout your climbing day. Aim for at least 30 grams of carbs per hour during active climbing.
Reason #5: Central nervous system (transient receptor potential receptor agonists)
This type of cramping can happen when your central nervous system gets fatigued. It may be a result of genetic predisposition, underlying medical conditions, a history of prior cramping, or stress. This is the theory behind why mustard, pickle juice, spicy peppers, etc. may help cramping: If the receptors in the mouth get a signal that something strong is being ingested, it may disrupt the nerve signal that is telling the muscle to cramp.
The solution: Bring something spicy or sour, such as a mustard packet or pickle juice shot if you’re prone to cramping often.
Reason #6: Medications, supplements, caffeine
And finally, some medications, supplements, and caffeine may cause cramping. Coffee in the morning, sports gummies with caffeine at the crag, plus a late-afternoon energy drink—that can all add up to far too much caffeine. If you must use caffeine to send, you’re doing it wrong. Food provides energy to working muscles, not caffeine. While caffeine can help with fatigue and alertness, it also alters neuromuscular function, which means that if you are physiologically prone to cramping, caffeine may be exacerbating your cramps. Similarly, medications such as beta agonists (common bronchodilators for asthma treatment) are associated with cramping in some people. If you suspect any of these in your own cramping history, consult with your doctor before making any changes.
How to prevent cramps
Try to identify which risk factors may be playing a role. Then try to alleviate or manage them the best you can. For example, if you cramp when it is comp day or when trying to send a big project, but not during training, it may be because you are stressed, moving faster, or climbing more intensely than usual. Either condition your body to tolerate these factors, or slow your pace to one you can manage.
Identify the underlying cause and address it. Think about the context of the day. Did the cramp occur when you were tired? Not quite in shape? Climbing in a style you’re not used to? Going longer than usual? Did you eat and drink appropriately? Were you overheated? Play detective to troubleshoot what went wrong so you can prevent it next time.
Practice self-care: Cramping is generally brought on by being vulnerable. Lack of sleep, poor strength, poor endurance, inadequate food, and inadequate fluids/electrolytes—all of these things increase your risk of cramping. Inoculate yourself against the wrath of the cramps by having good self-care and training practices.
Note: This is general information only and not nutrition or medical advice. Always speak with your healthcare professional before undergoing any diet or lifestyle change. For more information about cramps, see “An evidence-based review of the pathophysiology, treatment, and preventions of exercise-associated muscle cramps” in the Journal of Athletic Training.
Marisa Michael, MSc, RDN, CSSD is a board-certified specialist in sports dietetics and author of Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send. She serves on the USA Climbing medical committee and has a private practice in Portland, Oregon. Find her online at nutritionforclimbers.com or on Instagram @realnutritiondietitian for nutrition coaching, workshops, and writing services.
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