Weekend Whipper: Be Mindful of the Polished Classics!

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com.

A “classic” route does not necessarily stay that way forever. What was once grippy, clean stone can devolve to a soapy chalked mess with little mystery (six-inch ticks) and even less friction. 

Such is the reality for Fear and Loathing III (5.12a) in Red Rock, still a classic, to be sure, but one that requires more body tension than ever before to stick to its polished feet and over-chalked holds.

Alan Duong realized this just a bit too late. He was above the third draw and feeling solid, despite the shoe-blackened edges and midday heat. He reached the fourth bolt’s clipping jug, switched his feet to feel more balanced during the clip, and flagged. Then he pulled up a yard of slack and his foot greased off.

Thankfully Fear and Loathing III is well bolted and Duong was uninjured in the fall—just shaken to have taken such an unexpected fall. Duong reported that his belayer was fine too, despite the love-taps to the head.

Later that day Duong tied in for another attempt and carefully worked around the cruxy foot while making the fourth clip. Lesson learned: Be wary of a classic’s friction.

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.

Watch More Weekend Whippers:

• Crack-climbing Sport Climber Leans Into the Stereotype
• A Valuable Lesson for the Belayers Among Us
• Over-Confident Belayer Gives Uninspiring Catch

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