Here’s where to get Tamales de Antipolo – and how Filipino tamales came to be

MANILA, Philippines – Think of “tamales” and Mexico may immediately come to mind for many. It is, after all, the traditional Mexican delicacy made of masa (corn-based dough), topped with salsa, meats, veggies, cheese, and/or beans, wrapped and then steamed in a corn husk or banana leaves until ready to eat.

This dish of Mesoamerican origins was founded by indigenous cultures in Latin America, and even dates back to the the BC era. Which begs the question: how did we end up having our own Filipino version of the tamale and even its own sub-variants hailing from provinces like Pampanga, Batangas, Samar, and now, Rizal?

I recently stumbled upon local online business Sweet P’s Eats and Treats on Facebook, which is known for its “Tamales de Antipolo.” Pia, Sweet P’s owner, proudly claims herself as the only Antipolo-based maker of the traditional dish, inspired by the delicacy that she grew up with in Pampanga. However, Pia said that she actually never liked the tamales her father served her when she was a child.

“It wasn’t good. But when I saw tamales on Facebook in 2020, I ordered it because it looked so good. Maybe it tasted different! Sadly, it was the same as I remember,” Pia told Rappler. At the time, Sweet P’s was already running full steam ahead; her flaky empanadas in 30 flavors were selling like hotcakes during the pandemic.

“I tried to make tamales and changed some things to make it tastier. Then I posted it and people started to order and I got very good feedback. The people who ordered were tamales lovers and they were able to compare my tamales with the others. So just like my empanadas, I added more flavors so people have more choices,” Pia said. As of writing, there are eight flavors of her homemade tamales!

Tracing the tamales roots

According to Pia’s knowledge, it was the Spanish who first introduced tamales to the Philippines during the colonization period. Through the passing down of recipes, the tamale evolved into what is known as “bubuto,” the Filipino “binaki tamal.” “Binaki” is made from grated young corn, resulting in a coarse cornmeal, and “tamal” is made from rice flour.

Pampanga’s was among the first localized tamales to gain popularity. Eaten for breakfast or as merienda, the Filipino tamales is typically made of rice flour, coconut milk, onion, garlic, and peanut butter as its bottom white base. On top is the orange layer, made from annato oil, seasonings, and then topped with boiled chicken, eggs, and sometimes ham, nuts, shrimp, mushrooms, and more. They are steamed until perfectly chewy, hearty, and tasty. Some flavor profiles are sweeter, some more savory – it really depends.

Eventually, tamales spread to regions like Batangas, Catbalogan (a place in Samar known for its tamales), Cavite, Bulacan, and Quezon, with each area adding its own spin on the recipe. For example, Malolos’ version is more of a “dessert tamale” made with latik, jackfruit, and macapuno; Rosario, Cavite’s version may use chicken broth and longganisa; while Samar’s can include seasme seeds and a liempo filling.

The Antipolo way

What Pia wanted to do was create a distinctly Antipolo version that she herself enjoyed. Sweet P’s tamales have the consistency of the famous maja blanca kakanin, but savory and a bit more dense. Each steamed treat is topped with the works, depending on the variant, and can easily become softer and gooier if microwaved longer. If you prefer it firmer, just a few seconds in the microwave will do.

Sweet P’s tamales are made of coconut milk and rice flour, with the orange topping made of seasonings and peanuts, which is the layer that packs the most flavor. “For the white part and orange part, which are usually bland, I added secret spices to make them more yummy,” Pia said. Each unique flavor has different toppings, with each one delicious in its one way. The prices range from P85 to P145 per piece. A minimum order of three pieces (assorted) is required per customer.

There’s the Original (egg, pork, chicken); Original with Kesong Puti (egg, pork, chicken, kesong puti); Seafood (egg, shrimps, shiitake, taba ng talangka); Seafood with Kesong Puti (egg, shrimps, shiitake, taba ng talangka, kesong puti); Chicken Pastil (chicken with a hint of curry, eggs); sweet Corn con Keso (corn, kesong puti); Kaldereta (beef kaldereta, cheese); and the spicy Bicol Express.

It’s like a whole hearty meal in itself – it’s basically ulam and “rice” stuffed in one compact, savory kakanin that’ll fill anyone up on-the-go. My personal favorites are the flavors with taba ng talangka (crab fat), as it provides an extra richness and umami to the mild base. The toppings of egg, seafood, and chicken are generous throughout all variants.

Sweet P’s tamales have been enjoying the nationwide limelight so far, but breaking into the saturated foodie market during the pandemic wasn’t an easy feat for Pia, especially since Filipinos tamales are an unfamiliar concept to many from Metro Manila. Plus, the process to make them is tedious, Pia said.

“There are two parts. The white part and the orange part. You have to cook them separately. Then what ever toppings we have are also cooked separately. Eggs are boiled separately and sliced. Then we get banana leaves, heat each piece so they become pliable, and then that’s the only time we can assemble,” Pia said. Since they have eight flavors, they have eight colors for the strings so we and their customers can identify which is which.

“Once assembled, we steam them. After steaming, the chilled version is delivered within 24 hours. These will last for 4 to 5 days in the ref. Some say up to a week. They can be heated via microwave,” Pia added. Frozen tamales will last for 1 to 1.5 months in the freezer. To reheat these, you have to steam.

Despite the meticulous preparation and the rocky R&D stage, Pia believes that everything was – and continues to be – worth it. The regular customer feedback on her homemade tamales are more than enough to get her going, with many customers swearing that her version is the best among the rest.

“The reason why most Filipinos love tamales is because it’s been here for a long time. Since it’s our parents and grandparents who love tamales, having tamales now brings back those memories when you were a child,” Pia said.

“Most of my clients in the beginning were my age and older (I’m 54). They are the ones who appreciate tamales. Now they tell me that their kids who have tried tamales before and did not like them surprisingly do now this time around. Now I am able to cater to both the older and younger clients,” she added.

And that’s how Sweet P’s Tamales de Antipolo became a well-loved family affair across all regions! – Rappler.com

You can place your order via Sweet P’s Eats and Treats’ Facebook page or SMS at 0908 882 3933.