Weekend Whipper: Don’t Relax Too Much When You’re This Runout

Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com. 

First of all: kudos to Stephen Davis, this week’s whipper, for keeping a cool head while questing onsight above small gear. Speaking from our collective experience at Climbing, we typically tense up when faced with awkward, swinging, and otherwise ledge-filled falls. But Davis was cool as a cucumber on his first attempt of The Link (5.12a) at Ship Rock in North Carolina. When the route jogged hard left below several roofs, he “decided to double up on the last piece since I didn’t know what to expect before getting to a fixed pin.” Davis slotted a small nut then headed left, smearing his feet high against the wall to keep his body tensed.

“I felt alright,” he told Climbing, “not the best position, so when I went to grab a draw and it was on my left side I had to fiddle it around to get it ready. When I was about to clip it I relaxed a bit too much and just slipped.”

Davis assured us that though he appeared to whack his elbow during the fall, he didn’t, and was completely fine. “I went back up and found a much better stance to clip from. I took some much smaller whips while figuring out the beta but then made it through. Feeling confident I’ll get the redpoint next time!”

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend. Thanks to Curtis Baird for the video.

Watch more Weekend Whippers:

• Punching It to the Chains (Or Trying To) Over Tiny Trad Gear
• Find a Secure Clipping Hold—or Else
• Need to Clear the Head? Try a Warm-Up Whip

The post Weekend Whipper: Don’t Relax Too Much When You’re This Runout appeared first on Climbing.