A Passage Back: Morocco’s Enduring Allure to Its Jewish Diaspora

In an impassioned plea before the United Nations, Hillel Neuer, director of UN Watch, poised a poignant question to a host of Middle Eastern countries: “Where are your Jews?” To countries like Algeria, Egypt, and Iraq, which once had vibrant Jewish communities, this inquiry echoed through the halls with a deafening silence, highlighting the region’s historical exodus of Jewish populations.

Unlike many of its neighbors, however, Morocco stands as a remarkable exception to this unsettling trend. Over the centuries, Morocco has nurtured a thriving Jewish culture, weaving a unique tapestry of coexistence.

The recent “reverse exodus” — a phenomenon where Jews of Moroccan descent are returning to their ancestral homeland — stands as a testament to this enduring legacy. This modest yet significant migration symbolizes a compelling narrative of reconnecting with one’s roots, empowered by Morocco’s relatively tolerant atmosphere and rich Jewish heritage. This trend of migration back to Morocco unveils a hopeful narrative amidst a region often embroiled in religious discord, and was exemplified in the recent pilgrimage to the city of Meknes, where Moroccan Jews returned to their roots in a historic first since the 1960s, following the restoration of the city’s Jewish cemetery, marking a poignant reconnection with the land that cradles their ancestry.

The Rich Jewish Heritage of Morocco

Jewish history in Morocco is a vivid tapestry dating back over two millennia, even predating the Islamic conquest of the region. This long-standing presence fostered a unique Jewish identity that became integral to Morocco’s diverse cultural heritage. Despite various foreign rules including Roman, Spanish, and French colonial regimes, Jewish communities retained a distinct identity while contributing significantly to Morocco’s socio-economic fabric.

The “Golden Age,” from the 9th to the 11th century, witnessed a flourishing Jewish intellectual life with scholars like Rabbi Isaac Alfasi and Maimonides forming part of this vibrant academic milieu. However, the arrival of the Almohad rulers in the 12th century marked a darker period, forcing many Jews to flee or convert. Yet, the subsequent Reconquista and the Spanish Inquisition saw Sephardic Jews find refuge again in Morocco, reinvigorating the Jewish presence in the region. These historical waves of migration were reflective of the broader regional dynamics, but Morocco’s continuous allure as a refuge highlights its enduring legacy of tolerance and cultural pluralism.

King Mohammed V’s Protective Stance

During the grim era of World War II, when the sinister clouds of the Holocaust hovered over Europe, King Mohammed V of Morocco emerged as a beacon of hope for the Jewish community. His famous proclamation, “We have Moroccans, not Jews or Muslims,” exemplified a remarkable stance of unity and protection at a time when many Jewish communities faced annihilation. King Mohammed V was honored posthumously for his unwavering commitment to protecting his country’s 250,000 Jews during this perilous period.

Revival of Jewish Heritage Sites

In recent years, Morocco has initiated efforts to revive Jewish heritage sites, signifying its commitment to preserving the rich tapestry of its shared history. The restoration of synagogues, cemeteries, and Jewish quarters (mellahs) are testaments to the nation’s acknowledgment and celebration of its Jewish roots. The city of Fez, for instance, saw the restoration of the 17th-century Slat Alfassiyine synagogue, ending a period of neglect, and rekindling the connection to a once thriving Jewish community. These restoration projects not only serve as a bridge to the past, but also as a beacon of Morocco’s pluralistic ethos in a region often strained by religious tensions. The recent reinvigoration of the Jewish cemetery in the city of Meknes, visited by Jewish pilgrims in a historic gathering, further underpins this commitment. This restoration initiative is part of a larger endeavor that has seen 160 Jewish cemeteries across Morocco rejuvenated since 2010, amplifying the narrative of a shared history and a hope for religious co-existence.

Reasons Behind the “Reverse Exodus”

The reverse exodus phenomenon is underpinned by various factors. One major factor could be Morocco’s relatively tolerant environment compared to other Middle Eastern nations, making it a welcoming abode for those seeking to reconnect with their roots. The revitalization of Jewish heritage sites also plays a part in kindling this sense of belonging and heritage. Moreover, the distinctiveness of Moroccan Jewish culture, interwoven with the nation’s broader socio-cultural fabric, beckons descendants to explore and reclaim their historical identity. This migration trend also presents a contrasting narrative to the predominant one-way migration seen in other Middle Eastern nations.

Comparison with Other Middle Eastern Countries

Morocco’s narrative sharply contrasts with other Middle Eastern countries, where Jewish populations dwindled post-establishment of Israel. The query raised by Hillel Neuer at the UN, directed at multiple Middle Eastern nations about their vanishing Jewish communities, underscores a broader regional narrative of lost Jewish heritage. Morocco’s unique narrative of Jewish return presents an alternative model of religious coexistence, underlined by a historical bond transcending the prevailing regional tensions. The recent warming of relations between Israel and Morocco through the Abraham Accords further emboldens this narrative, opening a new chapter of diplomacy and reconnection amid a larger regional re-alignment towards peace and co-existence.

The Menorah’s Tale

The story of Montreal engineer Sam Edery and his treasured copper menorah illuminates the rich historical tapestry binding Morocco’s Jewish community and the monarchy. This heirloom, crafted by his grandfather during King Mohammed V’s reign, symbolizes the enduring royal protection accorded to the Jews. Such anecdotes breathe life into the historical narrative, rendering a personal touch to the broader discussion of the Jewish-Muslim coexistence in Morocco.

Reversing the Diaspora, A Beacon of Hope

The “reverse exodus” extends beyond mere migratory patterns; it’s a compelling narrative of homecoming, heritage revival, and hope. The rekindling ties between Moroccan Jews and their ancestral soil send a ripple of optimism across a region riddled with religious discord, setting Morocco as a beacon of tolerance and shared history. The communal pilgrimage to Meknes and the hopeful stories of individuals like Gilles Berdugo, who found a sense of homecoming after decades, and his son Avishai, who discovered a “missing piece of the family puzzle,” emphasize the profound personal and collective impact of this diasporic reversal.

This positive shift is also manifested in the initiation of direct flights between Israel and Morocco, a significant milestone between the two nations. The ease of travel now afforded by these direct flights is not only a symbol of the strengthened diplomatic rapport but also a practical facilitator of the cultural and familial reconnections that many are now eagerly pursuing. The inaugural direct flight from Tel Aviv to Rabat in December marked the beginning of a new era, one of easier accessibility and enhanced engagement, promising to further bolster the unique bond between Morocco and its Jewish diaspora.