The European seaside city that feels like Venice – but is so much cheaper
THEY say the best view of Rovinj is from the sea.
So where could be better to soak up that sight than from your own island hotel right in the harbour of what is one of Croatia’s most gorgeous cities?
I was staying at Maistra Select Island Hotel Katarina and, from my terrace, I could see Rovinj’s picturesque old town across the water.
Terracotta rooftops and pastel-coloured townhouses swirled around the soaring belltower of St Euphemia Church, all set on a little headland.
The first thing I thought was, “Have I ended up in Venice by mistake?”.
This beautiful fishing port does look like its more famous Italian counterpart on the opposite side of the Adriatic.
But that’s not surprising given that Rovinj was part of the Venetian empire for 500 years.
Instead of gondolas, the Island Hotel Katarina has its own little shuttle boat that is free for guests. It runs from early morning till midnight.
That gave us the best of both worlds — a seaside city break but on an island retreat.
After breakfast, we’d hop on the boat for the eight-minute ride to the port.
Rovinj’s shiny marble lanes are quiet in the morning, all the easier to stroll past the colourful houses and swiftly fall in love with the place.
The jetty is in front of the main square, which buzzes with cafe terraces full of coffee-mad Croatians getting their fix.
From here we wandered up Garibaldi Street, where we found Rovinj’s food market in full swing.
The produce, including local Istrian cheeses, olive oils and cured meats, looked delicious.
Heading into the narrow lanes of the old town, we happily got lost amid the immensely pretty houses, tiny boutiques and artists’ studios painted in every shade of pink and yellow.
Some of the alleyways went uphill towards St Euphemia Church and its 17th-century belltower — modelled on Venice’s one in St Mark’s Square.
If you’re nimble enough, you can tackle the rickety wooden staircase to reach the tower’s platform for fantastic views.
Eventually we found the western side of the old town, where a waterside footpath took us past rocky beaches.
This led to one of Rovinj’s most enchanting streets.
All along Holy Cross Street are attractive bars and restaurants, some with seaside terraces clinging to the rocks, others with cute little courtyard gardens.
Secluded location
On a warm summer’s evening, this is the place to stop for a sundowner.
Try the terrace at MC Club before going for a superb seafood dinner on the fabulous terrace of La Puntalina.
For a nightcap on the rocks, there is Mediterraneo cocktail bar right by the water’s edge. Sublime.
But there is even more on the other side of the old town’s harbour.
On summer nights, people dance the salsa in the port where the Katarina’s boat drops guests off.
Opposite is the friendly Kantinon tavern, where the harbour view is as wonderful as its seafood.
We quickly fell in love with our Rovinj routine.
Exploring the town in the morning. Lunch at one of the waterside restaurants (Ancona did good mussels).
Then back on the boat to our island for a chill-out at the Katarina, swimming in the sprawling outdoor pool or at the pebbly beach before heading back into town for dinner.
The hotel was originally a summer villa built by a Polish count in 1905, with later additions in keeping with its elegant cream-coloured architecture.
Footpaths wind through its landscaped gardens and the island’s pine tree forests — perfect for a post-swim stroll.
And if you don’t fancy leaving the island, there are two beach bars and a buffet restaurant.
Its secluded location makes it feel more expensive than it is.
It’s actually a three-star hotel — but one that gives you a laid-back taste of Istrian island life.
GO: Croatia
GETTING THERE: Fly to Pula with Ryanair, easyJet or Tui from £21.99 one way.
Mary travelled with Le Shuttle, which has one-way Folkestone-Calais crossings from £87.
STAYING THERE: Maistra Select Island Hotel Katarina has doubles from £112 a night, including breakfast. See maistra.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Excursion Adrian on the port has day trips visiting other islands, with swim stops and fish picnics, for £35, and sunset and dolphin tours for £18.