A Climber's Journal of Aconcagua
Aconcagua journal by Doug Peers
I am off to Argentina today to join with 8 other climbers and 3 guides from Mountain Madness to attempt a summit of Aconcagua via the Normal Route.
The team is arriving in Mendoza, Argentina over the next few days and we will soon begin our expedition and ascent of the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres. It is great training for the high altitude peaks in the Himalayas. Groups rope up in only the worst conditions. Aconcagua, via the Normal Route, is a non-technical climb on established routes. No glacier travel. Ice axe and crampons are usually only used at higher elevations as the trail steepens and can be snow covered and icy.
Aconcagua (the stone sentinel) stands at an impressive 6962m (22,834 ft.) above sea level, one of the “7 Summits”.
We begin our journey in the lush wine region of Mendoza, travel by van to the trail head then hike up the arid Horcones River valley to our base camp at Plaza de Mulas (19 miles). Mules carry our gear and supplies to base camp. From here we will establish 3 camps as we slowly move up the mountain to the highest point in the Andes. Aconcagua is known at times for high winds (100mph) and subzero temps, as well as the extreme high altitude environment. This mountain is never an easy feat and over half the climbers who attempt are turned back.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e00a5ea05905652a70eb19354538a675 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a0397cfb439a02c1b3119d5afab468f4 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=bb0c01e5add18a43f4bbb94f02c97108 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4f5651ca6bb8068d8773bb357329b9d0 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=3c3d162d37f419db4793d5f0363ab207 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=587b317828f221fdfc4085aecf27e14b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=9c59087fe19c5272c892f0f533aa9a4b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1_img_0884_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5656fa3f9a7bf5cd9208e671f9b5fb13 1024w)
The mountain taken from our flight from Santiago to Buenos Aries in March, 2013. I believe our route follows the gradual ridge on the left side of the mountain. Doug Peers photo
Day 1 in Mendoza
Sampling some of the local beef in Mendoza. Huge!! And very tasty. Even a vegetarian has to try a bit of this.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=50f593437fbecc4f147bc9f30a682455 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2d7352c42605cfbd4546db772df8f864 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=7e5dc3200310b9730a2aaddd6ed17046 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7eda18856353b6f05f6b2da3857dd442 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b7a004fbbf76034cd539fbfe9e6d53a7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=9192270e3e12109fac293bcd22c70def 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=72856e1142835d4d26245d7aafe4b054 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F2_img_9710-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=b931ac14e0bcc64427fcef0c3c67e830 1024w)
Now that’s a Steak!! Doug Peers photo
Day 2: Off to the Andes
We travel west towards the Andes Mountains several hours from Mendoza and stay at the Penitentes Ski Hill facilities which are just outside Aconcagua National Park Boundaries.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b9a7ea73d5d11cc49006aa923f0e4a4d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b2c0f622e1a9de64d99fbf35ccd3d4b4 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=58b6b1e175e8aeddd17830589e83c3e3 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6d632a6fe90fe7166100fdbc6574356b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7583d45d4d173fdff2d7d2a994000203 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=4c00bb06206f0ab2f69836c90023cdf6 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a003a4a21cf2bd9512f0a84692cf2213 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F3_img_9715_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=184660012d723533225b06b67bc58039 1024w)
Doug Peers photo
Day 3: First View of Aconcagua
After a short shuttle to the park gates we get our first glimpse of Aconcagua up the Horcones River Valley. We have a relatively short hike of 3 to 4 hours to a mini- base camp at Confluencia. We are just carrying day packs today as all our climbing/camping gear are being carried by mules.
Day 4: Up the Horcones Valley to Confluencia Camp
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b031d908e9691cc49e0243b67bc912c6 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8a183d176970c37c6879f70cd6be3c7d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b3bfb7af78c181914c27316722b010b2 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5d9ff9d281d4c28b19471f02fcb3081d 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=74afef2d693f12ecdc353aef1f9cf141 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=724eca5ca83dc7f9436b7af8d9a77e22 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4afd584287602035d1a74a99d8fafa4e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F4_img_9727_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=da8468d59e36bf63a14ecd69cceab1e2 1024w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=514465a0f6cddc4ec569239e4942441e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=15ef2eb5a420367d57bde31a33d4e625 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=1ebfab44e55571c58077317f8350c2ba 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5053ca04534065d0009d9a152740dba2 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=3a067e4fdbed6bfd4b8d760ea6b4a2b3 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c2bb652e0cf9875eee9802575ad44a59 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=6796a50b1ecb990f3d822bd58af75eb9 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F8_img_9749_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8e496ea287dceadb9a928a145e880e2b 1024w)
Hiking to Confluencia.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a19601731156c83999a948a54fa56854 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b88b200778ef034727d27c9ad3a7017a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e70a9e9a55756ece55c78bd3fa1a4082 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=f1c81298207583f130e05d72983483b9 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b571fab2f37f7b03e8b53ab78a93ec0e 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=f5ae8b986d4b498cbf4210ac16ed25ea 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=903420ed020bbd8b2fa71760d2b5117f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F5_img_9733_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=efbb44e433c1921f01f9ae236da035e2 1024w)
Mules carrying gear. Doug Peers photos
Day 5: Acclimatization Hike to Plaza Francia
On Day 5 we stay at Confluencia and day hike up a glacier valley flowing off Aconcagua to an impressive viewpoint of the 10,000 ft southwest face of Aconcagua. We would later look down over the edge at this point from the summit.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=de0c4631d94b0971f2314679c6126d10 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5301d9c924178804212405f305924859 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=48fc4016e8a77d30785a55c5212c47a3 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4392f7da66892adfa77af1b90a28dc6b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=32769953287f5740551eeb84c0324bee 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=7c3a5a271fccf933e934137a12c4666a 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=59046896096d68638738a460f244eab7 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F9_img_9756_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=282b7ec4ec7c3c8ecedb764ffc3eeae7 1024w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6eaec62cef8e638da772ea01775b9a78 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=60b423cf5b12906956becce7caac62de 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=15640d537fe15c31f918d70da81ea0cc 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=aec3caa2a4c2fc5cbd7314de45d91c2b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=eea500e738f62d7fe902873380e57f1f 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ced303f547cd61b24f1e6ff80224f418 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a0967145eeaef9dff3071ef6ce975f5e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F10_img_9769_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e7b3b42beb1d10797372c20efc87b9c1 1024w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=fae139986c473dba303f2b0bd915bd92 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=ac902a53df81088b07051a4b3baa6226 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=669505bb0dc37109baef6883103c3526 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=cc5b8508aac5e3ba41dcb72dd40334b9 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=32eb996a5f3e38140cd75464c78b07e4 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=353df16eca0c5a167520c8372f6a96e0 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=aaed0fa67c349169bd9ced52f569667e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F11_img_9782_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=136c856b84d0c7cf4ea7bf35974d5e84 1024w)
On the hike to Plaza Francia. Doug Peers photos
Day 6: Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp
This was a long hot day of 7 – 8 hours of hiking from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas, our base for moving up and down the mountain
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e9bfb83ee43d43dbaa0cff982af38451 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5cb9caedb85efb767039960ad9d616b5 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=4e2376a3e12384f7b8724d155d70352b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=3af44c2dd95565c84389e3139379f2e4 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=3bdec524a6cf2031a54ca0bdaeeecfee 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=2719daf98a7e24c35b262b777f7df26b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=16806edcbb2843b526a39addcd048682 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F13_img_9824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=677be7895ddf9119be1b19199053d0ce 1024w)
Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas. Doug Peers photo
Day 7: Rest Day at Base Camp
Time for a rest to get used to the thin air and get ready to move further up the mountain. Showers, Internet, telephone, food, drink, art, etc. This is the largest base camp in the world with the exception of Mt Everest each spring.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=582e1a6617069d514939dcff2097ec21 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=655b9f4595d405ab2f87877f4bb551f5 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=78bff4d908d45464c7a3bd5f846f716f 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c051eb32d41cec62a8913b8002d2264c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7aa60745f39dcf7f958c735c311182b0 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ceab3f65c36ae9b88107d6c35578dd7f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=6431e201e1dee7dba242fb99feb9448e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F14_img_9838_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5f51db0379e714e768c494e401c259fc 1024w)
Aconcagua base camp overview. Doug Peers photo
Day 8: Acclimatization Hike to Camp 1
Aconcagua is dry, very dry. This year there is no snow at Camp 1 and very little snow on the upper mountain. We use snow on the mountain as our source of water. To avoid the logistics of carrying water to Camp 1 we decide to skip the camp and do an acclimatization hike instead, then make our next full move to Camp 2 in a couple days. A couple of young guys in the group forego the porter service and decide to carry everything up to at least Camp 2 and drop a partial load at Camp 1. They pay the price further up the mountain and switch to porter help further up. For us mortals from sea level not opting for porter help up the mountain substantially reduces your chance of reaching the summit.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=065861a0668452358c6e8d4230e8145c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=9a5a8cc0093931a7c77443426b5127b0 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=fb0e6f848571562bc1a22c12ecbbfb89 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4af9fa4c8e1f76de7834b51b623b623c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=62bd7d362f47b5832bf365221788efc5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=4160ef97e6977c534df4cf12e4631b27 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b52728239adc732a436dc47986726e20 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F15_img_9854_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8359f3304c40478d0bde641b91e8a371 1024w)
Camp one. Doug Peers photo
Day 9: Rest Day at Base Camp
We take another rest day to acclimatize and prepare for the big move to Camp 2 and to wait for porters (we need 8 to carry all the supplies for 13 of us).
A couple of us do a day hike to an old lodge and to the toe of a glacier nearby.
A group member has trouble acclimatizing and suffers severe sleep apnea so he decides to call it quits.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=47e740e7f8c82feced5b49432232303d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=441804dde9398074d0c328087196db3d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=a0c0f6e1ed035224280981d62da86948 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=588c1f052ad3b36b3aa5401ec8f8e05f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=89526c5c21361ff9cc2da093843141b6 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6f4438da18d0e3d8b1dfdc16219976ca 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=17536f5100232671e9b5fe5f6ee115cf 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F16_p1190755-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3eb0ee7a6e12a79d719f59d66fc0be88 1024w)
You can see the summit of Aconcagua in this photo. No snow on this side!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=964721fceee1de5aae073ddb8f6c1397 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b1efbbb7b766048c4ddaeaf879afcc22 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b00fb3f408d4fb5bb35eec78a013c678 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=74f870a20be6508d049da8e81a6eba2d 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=0f5b17378e88ac4369e52886a09e772c 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=36baea1447563d38ee46e6857a4073cc 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7ee1a99ea655ff2df7a94481069a5ee4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F17_p1190759-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ef5280df620c568bb04fd5c7fe636256 1024w)
Hiking on the rest day. Doug Peers photos
Day 10: Move to Camp 2 18,200ft
Today we make the big move to Camp 2. This will be the start of our push to the summit. The difference between the air at 14,500, base camp, and Camp 2 is very noticeable and we all are suffering as we pull into camp. Camp 2 sits on a large saddle between Aconcagua proper and an adjacent minor peak. It offers great views toward the summit and toward the west yielding spectacular sunsets.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=133db2cddeffc20b8b8c3d4613bab493 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f0e12cd1b12fcd3c4c4d8fda0b79a478 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=1f76a2d5d68affb9c037e33d74259847 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c189691badc41e95d3c30dc1b1b63fc5 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=9682413f3b17fb257bc1c6991e1e608e 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=db3e41d5f4195e4c856c74e420e94c14 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=0394c1fde7b8aa2f4f1440b36ce44e7d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F18_p1200761_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=144c2ada7760229507e21b5a9c46da3f 1024w)
View from Camp Two.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ac9c68e3396bae407196d69ead7a0248 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2b5a464c477fe8c9de00f6371d11b52a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=622d25d5fb6acd3734c02da0f282f4ac 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e4530c8343bc5ececc28bc41997e0ed8 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=74a18d14724123a7c8b1053ded014f99 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=b0139c21f035aa8afc2d1514aa4ba5ed 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4c568c3d99d6c86b3601f8fa9b08077d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F21_img_9859_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4e98f586852dae1d4717dd9130ef03cb 1024w)
Striking sunset on Camp Two. Doug Peers photos
Day 11: Acclimatization Hike to Camp 3
Today we rest in the morning then take the steady uphill hike to Camp 3 at 19,500 ft., hang around for a while then head back to Camp 2 for the night.
It is cold at Camp 3 today. Last night the winds picked up for the first time and cooled things off. It our weather window is looking perfect for a Friday Night/Saturday morning summit attempt.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9c8582b27aa9638ac8e3b03dbcd0e816 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f4704d6f6198a793ddacef939deb79d3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=29ae43b1d9446e9a74f04c4a83cbe2d5 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6401670cf2244e748004f8cbe8b4d9b0 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=1a913ba106f6badaa98b233a51a88a28 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=df8b4481893a0b7efc518bfd6714bb73 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=437bbc65f2d044a515fa3ca768996ce3 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20_p1220799_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=f000891b862642f87f6ffbf428bc2652 1024w)
Returning from the visit to Camp Three. Doug Peers photo
Day 12: Move to Camp 3
Today we packed up our Camp 2 and moved to Camp 3. The porters would move ahead with the gear and set up the tents ahead of us at each camp. We would arrive later in the day.
Camp 3 is the junction of the Normal Route we were on and the Polish Glacier Route or route from the opposite side. This route has a one day longer approach and skirts the remnants of the disappearing Polish Glacier. Both routes start from Camp 3 for the summit. Camp 3 tends to be more congested then Camp 2 with teams staying just 2 nights. The nights before and after the summit attempt.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=8546097fa3b7c1460f42f890e2a2c235 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=ed29a047d9d0a2b622a7305e11e2c495 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=90b27956c5502ff4cc6147b86bb6d7bb 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=83c088af88583a14f9878ebc7b135145 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=0611acc6cc2b8c2440fa6bcd727b0d84 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=5256cb6022b9d6f8be3fe702e57082c7 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=35a930a9c7ee674892e10f32908a7c5b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F19_p1220786-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=7489419c0d56b448b724ef740f4abe0b 1024w)
The slightly more populated Camp Three. Doug Peers photo
Day 13: Summit Day
After a very restless sleep we were woken up around 4 am to prepare for a 5 am start. At 19,500 ft. everything seems to be a chore, not to mention it’s cold and dark. The worst part is getting your boots on and tied up. It leaves you totally out of breath.
My stomach had been bothering me in the night and I had a bad spell of nausea shortly after we started. I dropped my pack out of frustration and almost packed it in. After encouragement to give it another go from my friend and Mexican guide Ricardo, I started to feel better. In a couple hours I was back on track and by mid- day I was feeling great and moving with the lead group.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=643e27ca2714b6e235b2039d80e5c4e3 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=cb87cb7589ab95eb46c9c59189f0735b 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e8bcf7545485c1ca1f517566bac51f1c 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e0e11f8b093077204d8632a2e9af1c8c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=bff40afc9197b2b755851ba5454384e2 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=2de1fe69f29dff7b0543aea7307b115a 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=8bb6d9da8f87c097506399bd4e2f2934 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F22_p1240803_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=32f17ca32b774f3817b9b4fba5453bcb 1024w)
On the summit approach. Doug Peers photo
It took an incredibly long time to get up the mountain. The crux of this climb is a section called the Canaleta Couloir. It is a steep rock/scree gully that you have to zigzag your way up. This year it was very dry and there was a constant danger of rock fall from above. We spent probably 4 hours moving up this face finally traversing across at the top and rising up on the summit platform some 12 hours after starting out. From the summit you can look back at the knife edge ridge of the lower summit, look down the other side at the 9−10,000 ft drop to the valley glacier below and see into Chile towards the South Pacific Ocean. After the brief summit celebration, pictures and a bit of a walk around it was time to start making our way down. With the help of gravity and some new found energy we walked into camp 3 just 3 hours later at 8pm. 15 hours after we left camp in the morning.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ef8365b47fb821f020bcfcbdd459df28 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4186d92513f8f95527b86039ceeec2a1 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5bc929f6bf6d6f6cc8c8e34b9c46b9c7 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=516205ae0493627132eccea55b43d417 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f2fba05994602ca49d606c8807b113e3 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=79ea132ffab0839dd6d7237dc37ab0f4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4daa8ce994c734505920abbab102c285 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F23_p1240824_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a38b03490157506ee08d6f9b7f508f02 1024w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=4b1b6bfc84bdae903e56f9b36645f50c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=473c1db684879ad961855b708b0b5d66 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=1acf37097b7dadbdb66e39713bfcfbf4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2271eb095bfdbd39999489cc7626df41 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f7caa4bff271021f550b9119d26fd83c 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c626512fd29220589b2a711394889123 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5c76a6a857e521ea794ebb30dc3bf51c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F24_p1240829_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d504f337d596e53759153445b9efc25f 1024w)
Summit celebration! Doug Peers photos
Day 14: Descending from Camp 3 to Base Camp
It was a leisurely morning. We waited until the sun warmed up the tents before moving about, we slowly packed up our gear and broke down the camp. The porters would be up later in the day to carry down our group and heavy personal gear.
The descent to Base camp take about 2 hours and we take a more direct route than we did on the way up. The trick is to find the trail with the softest scree so you can hop/slide down with the least effort. No pictures going down as you need to concentrate on your footwork or you will end up on your ass.
In Base Camp the staff from Fernando Grajales greeted us with congratulations and served up the traditional pizza lunch for returning climbers.
The rest of the group decided to helicopter out from Base Camp to the trail head. Then on to Mendoza that night. By 8pm they were all on their way leaving the 3 guides and me to prepare for the long hike out the next day.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ac18f6867174a112cde7400e0f78d12b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6851d2a2b492dda8532e07a9982fa70c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c287693837b4bd243c9331062cb11764 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5539e3f8668eab02f115a0a238cd28e4 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=763c660bc864026817a9b5766ff576c6 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1bf9e40e4aa836ae30564e1ddb80a515 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b4c02d0a8337740a8368d801e1d69af8 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F25_img_0895-0_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=eacc4b6d712b3403141cd9aa7a480790 1024w)
Hiking from Base Camp to the Trailhead. Doug Peers photo
Day 15: Base Camp to Trailhead
The 4 of us remaining at base camp are treated to a soft bunk in the bunkhouse for the night. The hike out is mostly downhill but it will be a long potentially hot day. After a leisurely morning and late breakfast we organize the gear and tag it for transportation by the mule trains.
We leave around 11am. It takes me 7 hours total to hike out to the trailhead including, several rest stops and a 40 – 45 break for a beer at Confluencia while we waited for Joshua who was nursing a sore knee. As it turned out, he passed us while at Confluencia and we just caught up with him near the end.
We were checked in at Penitentes by 6, showered and shaved and having another good dinner by 8:30pm.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=374d14e10c1c2de3b6347147a509b888 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=42831e139066baee5f7f9c1a1ede183c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=4701ee1944d8b8fb5af4b417c67fa93b 640w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=495ae5f0398fc02d65cf864a86dcba78 640w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d705489fb646cd0f697e989c3f6bad7c 640w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3f3f8ecd4e0d061fa2a418b1e402d13c 640w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e0d23c1504b3ff54b5cf29516e84cc7e 640w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F26_p1270837_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4df194eb901542272156e050e665ecd1 640w)
Dinner in Mendoza with the group. Doug Peers photo
Day 16: Back to Mendoza and final dinner
It was a very scenic and satisfying drive back to Mendoza knowing that the hiking was done, we had made the summit, enjoyed the mountain scenery and would be heading home to our families soon. We had our final dinner at the same restaurant we started at several weeks ago. We were back to sample the 3″ thick juicy steaks but unfortunately it is seldom as good the second time and it wasn’t. A different cut of steak wasn’t nearly as good as the stories of the climb, the best, the worst, the funniest, and the hardest.
It was a great trip, Joshua, Jaime and Ricardo worked hard and were great guides. It was a great group of guys to climb with and I enjoyed getting to know everyone very much. Thank you to everyone!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7e692e3b199ff0e65530bc867a5ca1a5 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=31ab3834ca4e8ddb0420f072b68d49b6 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=a817acc7489680c75787b8184b7ff749 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=3396da01eb26822a8834a7ffe6a0a8ca 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=025013f41ce74b9a1676243190dc8887 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=cde55882b9084a7ea8d4a6618864033b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4e43442478690138c8b74ed926d6da67 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F27_img_0900_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=bfc49d6da2937b2430b44d984549c923 1024w)
Final Flyby — Aconcagua in the center, the Horcones valley to base camp on the left and the valley to Plaza Francia on the right. Johnny Eason photo
~MM Client Doug Peers.