A Climber We Lost: Leo Grillmair
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
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Leo Grillmair, 92, May 1
You can read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2023 here.
Leo Grillmair, a legendary mountain guide, heli-skiing pioneer, and co-founder of both the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH) Heli-Skiing & Summer Adventures, passed away on May 1, 2023, at the age of 92. Leo succumbed to injuries sustained in a skiing fall.
Leo was born on October 11, 1930, in Ansfelden, Austria. His passion for mountaineering took root early, as a young boy, learning to ski, camp, and hike with mentors from the area.
After the second world war, Leo seized an opportunity to move to Canada, when he was just in his 20s, convincing his childhood friend Hans Gmoser to join him. After injuring a leg and getting fired from a few jobs, it was Leo’s perseverance and love for the mountains that ultimately brought them to Calgary where they could explore mountainous landscapes. Leo’s technical skills, combined with his passion for skiing and mountaineering, marked the beginning of an extraordinary life in the mountains.
Leo and Hans soon found themselves in the Bugaboos, British Columbia, drawn in by stories from fellow Alpine Club of Canada members, who spoke of stunning gray and gold granite spires that rose up from pristine glaciers. Leo and Hans were rapt. Through guiding clients, they came up with the idea of using helicopters to quickly gain more vertical. In April 1965, they officially launched commercial helicopter skiing, giving birth to the activity and, consequently, opening CMH Bugaboo Lodge in 1968. Leo’s role in CMH ran deep. Aside from co-founding the company, he spent 22 years as area manager and lead guide in the Bugaboos. Leo’s contribution to skiing and climbing went beyond his business; he pioneered new routes, including the iconic Grillmair Chimneys (5.6) and Direttissima (5.8+) on Mt. Yamnuska, made the first Canadian ascent of Mount Alberta, and put up a new route on Denali, in Alaska, among many other accomplishments. In a 1997 interview with Chic Scott, Grillmair recounts jumping from a cliff face to a hovering helicopter 500 or 600 feet up in the air to avoid rappelling from shoddy pitons with a “rucksack full of rocks,” catching himself on the doorframe of the helicopter.
In his later years, Leo retired to his property in the Columbia Valley near Brisco, British Columbia, not far from the Bugaboo heli-pad. He said, “I often think, ‘do born Canadians really appreciate what they have here? Do they know what they have?’ I don’t think so. … We take a lot for granted, but we shouldn’t.” Leo remained connected to CMH, and regularly visited the Bugaboos. As told by Kelsey Verboom, his legacy lives on in the hospitality and warmth that defines CMH, a testament to his enduring impact.
Leo’s life unfolded as an extraordinary odyssey, transitioning from a modest dwelling in Austria to the majestic summits of Canada. His adventurous spirit, pioneering vision, and unwavering dedication have left an indelible mark on the world of heli-skiing and mountaineering. As friends and admirers fondly remember Leo, his legacy will continue to inspire generations to come.
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