9 LA County restaurants make Michelin’s list of ‘new discoveries’
Will these additions become Bib Gourmands or get elevated to stars?
The dining world’s prestigious Michelin Guide on Tuesday dropped one of its occasional midseason lists of “new discoveries” — restaurants that impressed its inspectors.
“While we’re not ready to reveal the entire 2024 selection quite yet, here are 10 tasty spots to hold you over til then,” the announcement said.
One of the highlighted restaurants is in San Francisco, and the other nine are in Southern California.
These establishments are listed as “New” on guide.michelin.com. Michelin highlighted “new discoveries” for the first time in the summer of 2021, and has done so every year since.
Will the praise for these restaurants be elevated to Michelin stars later this year? Or become Bib Gourmand honors, the Michelin awards given to restaurants that offer “excellent food at reasonable prices” to diners? It’s a wait-and-see situation for these chefs.
The summer 2023 star announcements solidified California’s reputation as a culinary mecca, reaffirming all six of the state’s three-star restaurants and all 12 two-star restaurants and praising hundreds of others for impressive cuisine, affordable meals or high sustainability standards.
Here is the list of the additions, along with dining notes from the Michelin inspectors:
7 ADAMS, San Francisco: “In this city, finding a five-course menu for under a hundred dollars is a tall order. Chefs Serena and David Fisher make it seem effortless, though, bringing their signature magic to this second act in a sleek new space. The cuisine keeps an unfussy Californian simplicity, featuring solid technique and thoughtful flavor combinations that allow quality seasonal ingredients to shine. Think carefully shaped caramelle pasta that pairs a filling of sweet and nutty kabocha squash with buttery chanterelles, or crisp-skinned black cod with sunchoke confit and a finely tuned shellfish broth. Desserts never fail to end the meal on a strong note, as in a perfectly tender, moist apple crumb cake dressed up with an orange bay leaf ice cream and satsuma granita.”
FUNKE, Beverly Hills: Chef Evan Funke, who also runs Felix and Mother Wolf, is at it again with this eponymous restaurant. Set in a three-story, 1930s art deco building, it’s a stunning tribute to Italian cooking, with handmade pasta taking center stage (there’s even a glassed-in room to watch them at work). Tall ceilings, red leather booths, and stone tables with brown leather/suede chairs set a stunning tone for a menu that pulls from their sister restaurants while remaining true to itself. Start with their pillowy focaccia, then savor a plate of tender South Pacific blue prawns in a garlicky salsa verde. Handmade agnolotti is perfectly al dente with a rich and creamy filling of sugo di arrosto, erbette chard, and parmigiano reggiano. Finally, torta di cioccolato is a wonderful finish.”
SUSHI SONAGI, Gardena: “Don’t expect to drop by Sushi Sonagi when the mood strikes, as this eight-seat sushi counter is only open on the weekends and hosts just two seatings nightly. Those who have planned ahead will be rewarded with an enticing multicourse omakase prepared by Chef Daniel Son, a second-generation sushi chef. Chawanmushi, an ankimo tart and minimally dressed nigiri are all part of the experience, though it’s the dolsot sekogani, or female snow crab stone pot rice, that makes a big impression. Presented to guests in the pot, then heated to produce a crispy crust, it’s then portioned to eager diners who delight in the richly seasoned meat. End with a charcoal-roasted sweet potato topped with house-made white sesame ice cream.”
AMOUR, Los Angeles: “Indoors or out? It’s the eternal question in Los Angeles, but even more difficult to decide at Amour. Banquettes and booths beckon on the patio, while the dining room, accessed through a library stacked with vintage books, is loaded with charm down to the very last candlestick. Multicourse tasting menus are on offer or order à la carte from a menu that blends French and Asian influences, as in chawanmushi with Perigord truffles and trout roe. New Caledonia blue prawn carpaccio and a French-style omelet with a quenelle of caviar and Comté foam are just two of the well-executed dishes. Wagyu sided by crispy matchstick potatoes is given a hint of sweetness courtesy of a swirl of beet puree, while millefeuille with dulce de leche brings it all home.”
LITTLE FISH, Los Angeles: “Once itinerant, Anna Sonenshein and Niki Vahle now welcome guests to their Echo Park location where they share space with a mini market. Come for breakfast or lunch—both are delicious. As their name suggests, the menu is seafood-focused, but steak and vegetarian offerings are also on offer. Mornings are met with items like fish tartines and fish and mushroom congee, while lunch features heartier sandwiches like their signature fried fish. The beer-battered Pacific striped bass is tender and sweet, then topped with American cheese, kewpie mayo and dill pickles on a potato bun for a midday meal that is as satisfying as they come. Not a fan of fish? The broccoli rabe melt with kabocha squash spread, provolone piuccante cheese and chili garlic is a standout.”
LIU’S CAFE, Los Angeles: “Liu’s Cafe is just the sort of casual spot you’ll come to again and again. Arrive early, as seats fill quickly, then order at the wood counter, where you’ll get a sneak peek into the bustling kitchen. You’ll also spy their selection of pastries, which definitely shouldn’t be overlooked. Order the house-made pork wontons for a tender, tasty treat, and be sure to get the extra egg noodles to soak up that wonderfully kicky chili oil. Braised pork belly rice is another dish of pure comfort, and no matter what you have, everything is complemented by a pot of tea, such as the milk oolong. Finally, the pastries grab attention from the very beginning and closing out with a dessert like the citrus curd tart with shaved fennel salad is everything you want it to be.”
POLLO A LA BRASA, Los Angeles: “Peruvian in Koreatown? You bet, at least at this family-owned and run spot that has been at it for more than thirty years. Expect a casual neighborhood restaurant that’s a touch warm on the inside from the heat of the live-fire cooking. All of the chicken is cooked over a wood fire that you can smell a block away and delivers smoky meat with a crispy skin that’s marinated with their family secret. While there are a few options on the menu, make sure that you order the chicken by itself, or choose from their sides, but don’t skip their twice-fried French fries and consider ordering a second container of their spicy green aji sauce. The wait times can be a bit long, so call ahead for take-out or wait patiently.”
QUARTER SHEETS PIZZA, Los Angeles: “Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin’s Quarter Sheets Pizza has nailed that haute hipster vibe with its casual styling and vinyl and cassette collection. The word is out on this Echo Park spot, so expect a wait, but one bite of their inch-thick, pan-style pizzas makes it all worth your while. Baked to order, they’re prepared with flavorful sauce and quality ingredients. Pepperoni is a classic choice, or opt for the pimento grove, a vodka sauced pizza topped with olives, ‘nduja and cheese. And, while you might not expect to get serious pastries at a pizza shop, don’t leave without trying at least one of Hannah Ziskin’s pastries. There are a few offerings that rotate often but the signature Princess cake is a staple that’s worth every bite.”
SAWA, Los Angeles: “It’s tucked in the basement of an office building in Downtown LA and isn’t easy to find (they even send a video with directions) but this sleek, edomae-style omakase with a sprinkling of seats at the counter is worthy of a visit. Fish is sourced from Japan, with bluefin tuna hailing from Mexico and Spain, and the cocktail pairing is a nice complement. Nigiri is left to shine with a stroke of nikiri and simple toppings of yuzu kosho or ginger, but items like the shredded sous vide scallop roll prove that they’re willing to be playful, too. Shrimp cake with panko-battered, deep-fried lotus root is spot on, while minced spearhead squid topped with Hokkaido bafun uni tucked in nori hits all the right notes. Soy sauce cheesecake is a smooth and rich ending.”
UKA, Los Angeles: “Two chefs (both formerly of the Permanent Mission of Japan to the United Nations) and two waiters take great care with the details at this sleek hideaway nestled within Japan House at the Ovation Hollywood. Here, the fish is sourced from Japan and flown in twice weekly, then cured in house. Bonito is made in house and other products are sourced locally for the best quality. It’s all part of the kaiseki dining experience at UKA, where guests are invited to savor six or nine courses. Most of the menu leans traditional, as in the kabutamushi, a dumpling made with shredded turnip and filled with Japanese sea bream, while French influences make their way into dishes like grilled abalone with a butter ponzu sauce and wagyu with a red wine jus and miso butter sauce.”