Fashion old and new walked down the runways at AFW, but will it sell?
Australian Fashion Week is one of the most influential industry events in the Asia-Pacific region and its runaways have the power to launch careers and cement brands.
Every year designers take over the runways at Carriageworks, except for a few offsite shows, to debut their newest collection with the hopes of it being picked up by buyers.
The Australian fashion industry contributes $27 billion to the country’s domestic economy, $7.2 billion in export revenue and employs 500,000 workers, according to the Australian Fashion Council.
The success of homegrown designers is imperative to the national economy – but what does it take to sell a fashion collection in 2024?
On holding your own
The Iconic is the largest fashion platform in Australia and is in regular attendance at AFW in search of the next big designers.
“The Iconic is always searching for the newest up-and-coming designers and events like AFW are such great opportunities for new brands to showcase their work,” Lisa Bean, The Iconic’s senior designer buyer, told Inside Retail.
“In recent years we’ve picked up the likes of Karla Spectic, Verner and the next-gen of Fashion Design Studio Designers after their AFW appearances,” Bean noted.
But cutting through the noise of a crowded schedule like AFW and standing out to buyers takes a strong point of view.
“I’m looking for brands that can hold their own in an arguably saturated market,” said Bean.
“Whilst it’s important for brands to showcase commercial trends, they need to have their own unique aesthetic and not be afraid to take a chance.”
To have a collection picked up by a multi-brand retailer requires a level of commerciality that needs to be applied but fashion week shows require a sense of theatre – it’s a balancing act.
“It’s a real talent for a designer to incorporate their artistic craftsmanship, and those designers that can execute this see longstanding success within the fashion industry,” said Bean.
“I’m always mindful of accessories and footwear used in styling for shows, which are often competing for my attention on the runway,” she added.
In with the old
But this year there was a new theme dominating the catwalk, old clothing, with some designers dictating that new clothing is now out of fashion.
Anna Quan mixed archival pieces into its runway styling and Iordanes Spyridon Gogos reworked discarded fabric into its The Woven Trojan Horse collection.
Madre Natura in its AFW debut showcased its collection from last season to make a bold statement about the industry’s waste problem.
“This season to avoid wastage and to be kinder to the planet, we are not launching a new collection at Australian Fashion Week,” stated Madre Nature. “This has never been done before…”
The overproduction of garments and mass consumption has led the industry to attempt to shift the rapid trend cycle towards a circular fashion economy.
“They’re creating pieces with lasting appeal, meant to be passed down or recycled into something new down the line,” Anne-Marie Cheney, Ebay Australia’s head of fashion, told Inside Retail.
Ebay reported that there is growing consumer recognition for a fashion landscape that supports pre-loved clothing and accessories.
“Our recent Ebay research underscores this trend, revealing that one in five respondents purchased a luxury pre-loved item in the past year, with an overwhelming 87 per cent expressing intent to continue or increase their pre-loved fashion purchases in the future,” said Cheney.
The gradual acceptance of designers and the growing demand of consumers for a fashion industry that supports and champions Australia’s fashion economy is the latest trend.
“It’s like they’re reimagining the entire lifecycle of their garments, thinking beyond just the first wearer,” Cheney concluded.
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