Taste-Off: The primo pickled peppers — and the bad ones

We taste-tested 10 varieties of pickled peppers -- primarily pepperoncini and banana peppers -- available at local markets to find the ones worth buying and the ones best avoided.

Peter Piper had it right. Whether it’s by the jar or the peck, pickled peppers add a burst of sunny, salty brightness to everything they touch. Milder than a jalapeño and tamer than a pickle, pickled peppers deliver salt, acid and a dash of heat to salads, sandwiches, pizza and more.

Pickled peppers come in many forms — hot, medium and mild, whole and sliced, pepperoncini, wax peppers and that bright yellow newcomer, banana peppers.

For this taste-off, we hit the condiment aisle and picked up half a peck — well, 5 pounds or so — of jarred peppers, sticking with the two most popular varieties: pepperoncini and banana peppers.

Pepperoncini and their cousins, golden Greek, are sweet peppers with thin flesh. They turn wrinkly and a bit sour when pickled, and they’re typically fairly mild. At 100 to 500 on the Scoville pepper scale, they’re hotter than a bell pepper (0) but much milder than a jalapeno (2,500 to 8,000). (By the way, the number of Ps in the name varies by country — they’re peperoncini in Italy and pepperoncini in the U.S.)

Banana peppers have smoother, thicker flesh, waxy skin and zesty, but mild flavor — 500 on the Scoville scale, if you’re keeping score.

We threw both varieties into this lineup, rating them on flavor, texture and overall appeal. Good peppers — no matter the variety — deliver vibrant vegetable flavor, pleasant texture and a welcome shot of clean brininess.

Here’s the scoop on the pickled peppers worth the pantry space, and the jars to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 1/4 cup or 30 grams.

Giuliano Imported Golden Sliced Peperoncini

These bold, pepper slices are exactly what you want in a forkful of pepperoncini. They’re clean, fresh and crisp. 5 calories, 386 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces at Smart & Final. (4 stars)

Star Greek Pepperoncini

Robust pepper flavor and good crunch makes these spicy peppers a great choice. They’re salty but deliver a mouthful of pepper deliciousness. 10 calories, 490 mg sodium. $4.99 for 16 ounces at Safeway. (3½ stars)

Mezzetta Mild Banana Pepper Rings

Salty, briny and decidedly mild, these meaty rings are a good pick for those who don’t tolerate spice. 5 calories, 310 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. (3 stars)

Jeff’s Garden Sliced Golden Greek Peperoncini

Layers of unexpected flavor notes, thanks to the addition of turmeric and rosemary, make these a tangy alternative to the standard pepperoncini. 5 calories, 390 mg sodium. $4.69 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 stars)

Jeff’s Garden Sunshine Mix Mild Banana Pepper Rings

These gorgeous, chunky rings have a pleasant, bell pepper-like flavor, but they lack the charming bite of most pickled peppers. 5 calories, 310 mg sodium. $3.60 for 12 ounces at Whole Foods. (2½ stars)

Market Pantry Mild Sliced Banana Peppers

Those who love bell peppers may enjoy these thick slices. They’re nearly sweet, but enjoyable nonetheless. 5 calories, 330 mg sodium. $1.99 for 12 ounces at Target. (2 stars)

Mezzetta Sliced Golden Greek Peperoncini

If heat is what you’re after, these deliver. Sadly, they are far too salty and seriously under-cured, which makes them waxy and tough to chew. 5 calories, 390 mg sodium. $3.99 for 16 ounces. (1½ stars)

365 Organic Sliced Pepperoncini

Funky, muddled brine and chewy texture make these a poor choice. They deliver a pleasant hit of heat, but these would be best used in cooked dishes. 5 calories, 350 mg sodium. $4.99 for 15.5 ounces at Whole Foods. (1 star)

Divina Sliced Pepperoncini

Minimal salt, a gentle tang and heat that builds make these pale slices pleasant in terms of flavor, but the skins are nearly impossible to chew. 5 calories, 200 mg sodium. $5.69 for 15.5 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

Krinos Imported Pepperoncini

The only thing this brand gets right is the texture. The peppers have a slightly hot aftertaste, but salt drowns out every other flavor component. 10 calories, 540 mg sodium. $3.49 for 13 ounces at Smart & Final. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.