8 Insider Tips for Climbing in the Roof-Crack Capital of the World
The White Rim in Canyonlands, Utah, has some of the world's best and hardest roof cracks. But climbing there takes planning and insider knowledge—get those permits now!
The post 8 Insider Tips for Climbing in the Roof-Crack Capital of the World appeared first on Climbing.
When Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker made their historic redpoint of Century Crack (5.14b) in 2011, Mary Eden had just learned how to tie her figure-eight.
It was the same year that Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet would free Necronomicon (5.14a), the WC green-sized answer to Century Crack’s offwidth challenge. Both cracks are carved into the ground beside the White Rim Road, a 100-mile dirt road that encircles the Island in the Sky mesa in Canyonlands National Park.
“Funny enough, I stumbled upon this climbing scene before even hearing about Yosemite,” says Eden. “For me, the White Rim was like the uncharted Wild West of rock climbing. I’ve always felt drawn to the remote desert choss, even since the beginning.”
The White Rim, a section of Canyonlands, was originally known by climbers as a tower-bagging destination. Overlooking the deeply carved-out mesa, towers such as Standing Rock, Chip and Dale, Washer Woman, and Monster Tower offer a remote, adventurous day, especially if integrated into a bikepacking trip.
In 2017, five years after Rob Pizem showed them some of the roof cracks beneath the White Rim, the Wide Boyz returned for an extended trip, this time discovering, naming, and climbing on more than 15 additional roof cracks. All were 5.11d or above, half were at least 5.13a in difficulty, and many had remained unsent. The White Rim had officially met its destiny as a mecca for hard roof crack climbing.
In the last two years, especially, more and more crack climbers have been lured to the White Rim as a project destination. In 2022, Eden made the fourth and first female ascent of Necronomicon, closely followed by Bronwyn Hodgins. Just last fall, Eden and Mari Salvesen made the third and fourth ascent of Black Mamba (5.14b)—becoming the fourth and fifth women to send 5.14b on gear—and Fumiya Nakamura made the fourth ascent of Century Crack.
“There’s just nowhere like the White Rim.” Eden says. “The climbing down there is special. It’s quiet. It’s remote. It’s in some of Utah’s best wilderness.”
After Eden suggested that I try The Angry Pirate (5.13a) in November 2023, I found myself captivated by my own White Rim roof crack project. Suddenly, the rules and logistics involved in getting to the caves became extremely relevant.
Here’s what you need to know to visit—and climb well in—this awe-inspiring area.
Step 1: Pick your route
Looking for the ultra-long version of the Crackhouse, with a 25-foot offwidth section at the end? Try Black Mamba. More interested in bagging towers and beautiful summits? You’ll want to snag the High on Moab guidebook by Karl Kelly and peruse Island and the Sky’s Mountain Project page for tower objectives. Maybe you’re ready for some rarely-repeated or unsent 5.13-5.15 roof cracks? Check out the Wide Boyz’ legendary tick list.
For Eden, part of the allure of spending so much time in the White Rim is the presence of bighorn sheep, which were, until recently, labeled an endangered species. “The first time I scoped out my first real White Rim project, Necronomicon,” says Eden, “I was surprised to see a rare herd just wandering beneath the route.”
In the 1980s, bighorn sheep were headed for extinction in Southeast Utah until the Canyonlands herd of about 350 sheep–50 of which live on the White Rim–helped repopulate the entire region. These graceful, sturdy, reproductively-talented heroes prefer silence and are easily disturbed by loud humans. Spotting them is a rare and whisper-worthy event.
“I didn’t see the bighorns again in that area until three years later, at sunrise, just a few minutes before I sent Black Mamba,” says Eden. “They came back. Almost as an omen of good fortune.”
Step 2: Secure entry permits
Visitors to the White Rim must reserve day passes ($6 per day) or backcountry camping permits ($15 per day) on Recreation.gov. Due to limited permit availability, Eden recommends reserving backcountry permits six to seven in advance—generally picking up passes in March for her trips each October.
Fall is the ideal season to project along the White Rim Road. Summer temperatures can extend far above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. In the winter, the road is closed until the snow melts from the steep drop-offs. Spring weather can be great, but many climbing routes are closed from early March to August 15 to allow the endangered bighorn sheep the space and quiet to mate.
“The price for the overnight permits—even a day use permit—and gas money can all really add up,” Eden says. Recreation.gov charges a registration fee of $36, so it’s best to secure all your permits in one go.
Remember, too, that climbing in the White Rim is both a delight and a privilege. As climbing there grows more popular, says Nate Ament, the current Arches and Canyonlands Backcountry Program Lead and an 11-year veteran of the National Park Service, climbers “need to be aware of the associated impacts like driving, parking, campsite selection, and human waste.”
Step 3: Arrange transportation
It’s illegal to drive on the White Rim in a non-4WD vehicle, and trust me: You don’t want to try. Eden, who did not own a 4WD car until 2024, says that borrowing a 4×4 from her friend Bernie was key to her projecting process.
Climbers can also rent Jeeps in Moab at Twisted, Jenn’s, or Cliffhanger Jeep Rentals. Those who prefer to bikepack can rent mountain bikes at Chile Pepper Bike Shop, Moab Cyclery, or Poison Spider Bicycles. Once you’re rolling with high clearance and huge tires, you’ll be ready for those nail-biting cliffside roads.
Note: Getting to a route on the White Rim can take 1-4 hours by car (one way!) and can be rather perilous in the dark. For your first trip, plan to drive in the daylight.
Step 4: Train, train, train
White Rim roof cracks are burly—and long. Home to some of the longest roof cracks in the world, including Black Mamba (150 feet) and Century Crack (130 feet), the National Park Service does not allow bolting of any kind in Canyonlands. Therefore, climbers can expect crack routes to extend from one natural ledge to either another natural ledge or a top-out. Having enough endurance to give the roof cracks a solid attempt is essential.
“The first time I scouted Necronomicon, I wasn’t nearly strong enough,” says Eden. “I learned that the sweet spot was finding that balance between being physically prepared enough to tackle the route efficiently, but not so ripped that you miss out on relishing life down there. To build the necessary strength, I committed to a twelve-week program with Lattice Training.”
“Having the necessary power endurance for the mega roofs without getting on the routes beforehand makes training quite the guessing game,” says Eden. Her Black Mamba training program involved lifting weights and “a lot of time spent on a wooden Crack Trainer of Doom,” which she built on her patio.
“It’s also not just about finishing a training plan,” she says. “It’s also about understanding the nuance of difficult sizes.” Leading up to Necronomicon in 2022, Eden spent a whole season seeking out hard .75-sized test piece routes. “I realized I wasn’t proficient enough in the big ring locks to be able to send that route,” she says. “So not only did I need to train overall for roof cracks, I also needed to refine my movement in that marginal size.”
“You need to know your body. I consider myself ready for a White Rim roof crack trip when I am able to comfortably complete three sets of ten minutes on the crack trainer with thirty minute rests between sets on a variety of jams like fists, cupped hands, thin hands, and handjams.”
“But you do you,” she adds.
Step 5: Know the necessary gear
- Rock-colored chalk. Put that white chalk back in your gear pile—it’s illegal everywhere in Canyonlands. Instead, buy some brown chalk online (Wall Street Gold is $11.99 per pack) or call Gearheads in Moab to check its availability.
- Bear can. If you’re backcountry camping, rent a bear can from Gearheads for $5 per day and make sure to keep all your food in it. Otherwise, you’ll find mice chewing through your tent and bags.
- Wag bags. All human waste must be packed out in Canyonlands, so make sure you buy enough wag bags for all your bathroom needs. Pack it out!
- Broom or toilet brush. “The cracks are really dirty,” says Eden, thanks to summer rains that clog the cracks with debris. “Even a relatively clean roof crack will rain sand and debris onto you with every move. For Black Mamba, I cleaned the sand and dirt the best I could with a broom and toilet brush. Be aware of choss when you’re climbing these cracks, too. They’re still rarely climbed. And a good jug can quickly end up in your lap.”
- Static rope, jugging gear, and rappel equipment. Some roof cracks can only be accessed by rappelling in from the rim, so be prepared to build your own anchor and know how to ascend a fixed line to get out.
- Tent. If you’ve just got a White Rim backpacking permit and not a campground reservation, you’re not allowed to sleep in your car. In fact, if you’re sleeping less than one mile from the road, it’s mandatory to camp beneath the Rim–so yes, in a cave.
Step 6: Recruit fellow cave-dweller(s)
Curious, stoked, and slightly unhinged vibes are essential. Find someone who:
- Wants to hear your shoddy ghost stories in some dark, spider-infested crevice above an enormous canyon
- Loves to poop in a bag and doesn’t mind taking a lap just to make the crack “less dirty”
- Doesn’t mind finding sand in their hair
- Is willing to drive one to four hours (one-way) into the desert
- Will carry all your camping supplies and enormous offwidth cams across the Rim like a run-down pack mule
- Can live with little to no cell signal for days at a time
- Is willing to climb up to the Rim to watch the sunrise before your final redpoint
- Delights in sticking their hands into the crack in the early afternoon to get that magical, two-minute “glowing hands” effect where light reflects off your palms onto the wall
Finding this person, or people, is essential to your White Rim roof crack adventure.
Step 7: Don’t biff the approach
Many Indian Creek climbers are already familiar with the “Don’t Bust the Crust” motto, but compared to the Creek, the White Rim has far fewer access trails. Your approach can have a significant impact on the area and on future climbing access.
“The crust” is a community of algae, green algae, cyanobacteria, lichens, and assorted bacteria that help the sand retain water, prevent wind erosion, and deliver key nutrients throughout the soil. When it’s stepped on, the crust takes 5-7 years to grow back and 50 years to mature. Preserving the delicate biological soil crust of the White Rim is one of the most important considerations for aspiring Canyonlands climbers–especially if climbing access is to continue.
“When in doubt, just walk on the rocks,” says Ament. “The most sensitive soils are biological soil crusts, which look like lumpy black cookies in the soil. They are amazing symbiotic organism communities, and one of the foundations of all life in the Canyonlands desert.”
Also, don’t wait until you’re driving out (with no cell signal) to ask fellow roof crack addicts where the routes are. The routes can be quite hidden, so either know before you go, or embrace the mindset of an explorer.
“The sheep don’t provide reliable directions,” Eden jokes. “I tried.”
“I’m super stoked to help people find the routes, and so are the Wide Boyz,” she says. “In fact, I’m always in need of a fellow cave-dweller.”
Step 8: Take it all in
The first time I drove into the White Rim, Eden led me down a winding path along the edge of the drop-off (hopping from rock to rock to avoid the soft black crust layer) to lead me to Necronomicon. When we arrived, an immense stillness hollowed out the canyon below us.
I dropped our bags and listened for traffic sounds that did not arrive. No trails, no humans, and no obvious path back to civilization. It was easy to imagine that we’d arrived in another century, or on another planet.
Nightfall would introduce thousands of stars to lord over the spectral quiet. With practically zero light pollution, the White Rim’s open view of the sky is one of the best spots to lose yourself in stargazing.
But first, sunset. After we’d gotten organized and made dinner, Eden crawled up to the top of the Rim and sat cross-legged on the edge, where the ground disappeared into a three-hundred-foot-deep labyrinth more complex than a city. We watched the shadows pull themselves across the abyss in an infinitely slow blur. In the distance, jagged towers burned orange.
“Camping in the caves is amazing,” she told me later. “You live with your dream routes. You eat under them. You sleep under them. You scramble up to the light a few times a day to maybe do yoga and play music. The White Rim is the only place on Earth that has all of these hard roof crack test pieces offered up on a buffet.”
The post 8 Insider Tips for Climbing in the Roof-Crack Capital of the World appeared first on Climbing.