Seals and Caves in South Devon, July 2024

Time to go on the CKC annual weekend trip to South Devon and our yearly visit to Sea View Campsite near Slapton Sands. Unfortunately we had a few last minute ‘not able to make it’ paddlers but still a good sized group of 11 paddlers came,  including three out of London members.

The campsite was very quiet and we were all able to have a good amount of space near each other on the on the top field with Fiona taking up residence in the static caravan – which was ultimately vital as the England football team made it to the final of the Euro’s and where else would we be able to watch the match! 

The whole weekend had been made to happen with the careful logistical planning – to get all the boats on cars and passengers sorted out.  Also our knowledge of the coast made it easy for everyone, as we had already done the on the water trip planning. With a group of 11 we decided not to split up this year and all go as one group.

Saturday’s trip launched at Hope Cove heading around Bolt Tail headland. The weather was mixed sun and cloud and not cold. We had been promised us caves and boy did he provide this! Super-big multilayer caves were great to explore deeper and deeper into. Caution and respect was needed as seals are also in some of the caves, some were curious some not so. The seals that are happy to swim along side your boat are a joy to see with their little curious face staring back at you.

Along this coastline are fabulous rock hopping opportunities with gullies and nooks to twist and turn your boat through. Little or no swell was happening so no risky bits to navigate. Great practice for everyone to try to get their boats to turn quicker and use different paddle strokes.

Lunch was at a lovely small cove called Soar Mill Cove, halfway along from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head. Dog walkers and picnickers come to this cove after a bit of a walk so no facilities but nice and quiet even at this time of year.  The weather and sea temperature was good enough for some folk to take a dip and not sit and shiver afterwards!

After lunch we did a return paddle back along to Hope Cove again enjoying the rock hopping, seals and caves. It was a not long trip distance wise but lots to see and do.

There was a bit of rush to be had after loading boats back on the cars to ensure we got to our booking on time at the local village pub in Slapton.

Sundays trip that was planned was to launch at Torquay, known by the Victorians as the UK’s equivalent to the French Riviera! There was a concern voiced that we are missing out on Devon coast by coming to this urban area. By the end of the day I believe these concerns were put to bed, as apart from the first and last 10 minutes, no one would be aware we might be in a built up area because from the sea the coast line is still very attractive with rocky unspoilt views.

The conditions were a bit overcast, with little wind (likely to possibly build up later in the day) but warm enough. The paddle took us along the coast to an arch to paddle through known as London Bridge.

Then onto a rocky island just off the coast called Thatcher’s Rock. From here was a short crossing further out to Ore Stone. This rock is known for its bird life. Certainly a lot of shags were there and some Kittiwake gulls. Earlier in the season you might also see Guillemots nesting on the cliffs, which is unusual to see that far south in the UK.

For any geologist the coast line is also interesting with obvious movement of the Devonian Sandstone in arches and dips (synclines and anticlines ). We paddled past Hope’s Nose and another place called Hope Cove, and past Anstey Cove. They were warning notices evident to alert folk to the area being special for sea grass protection.  Sea Grass is not a seaweed but has now been understood to be vital material to help with carbon reabsorption.  Seagrass – Wild Planet Trust

There are quarried features at the next headlands we paddled past. On these promontories were a lot of fisherman for which one had to paddle right out away from their far-reaching casting lines. Also, a rather alarming high diver was seen but not captured on film, doing a somersault as he dived from at least two buses high up from the cliff into the sea.

A sweet charming little cove was our lunch time destination at Babbacombe (this time with facilities of a café and toilet). Our return back to Torquay was uneventful but the wind did pick up very slightly (F3) and was a head wind and the sea was a little bumpier but not anything that any of us could not manage. Whilst getting our boats back up the slip way and onto our vehicles we were merrily serenaded by a Torquay busker who was rather in need of some singing lessons!

For those that stayed on to overnight on Sunday we had wonderful pizzas from Joe’s Pizza in Totnes for our supper before watching England being beaten in the Euro final by Spain. Well-tried England though! Unfortunately, the weather and wind changed for the worse on Monday so no paddling was possible, instead some intrepid club members ventured to the Totnes cheese shop as a consolation.