TasteFood: A fall-forward fruit crisp

This luscious fruit crisp is a perfect dessert for an early fall evening. Look to September’s harvest and gather late-season stone fruit and autumnal pears for this homey baked dessert. Then fortify the filling and topping with dried fruit and nuts for extra substance, sweetness and texture.

The key to a good fruit crisp is to combine a bounty of fruits at their peak in flavor, enhanced with a dusting of sugar and spice. Use a light hand with the sugar; let the fruit do the heavy lifting to sweeten the dish. The topping should be crisp and crumbly, not cloyingly sweet. Add oats and nuts for a hearty, crunchy texture. (This is why the dessert is called a crisp and not a crumble. A crumble does not include oats and relies on flour to create a clumpier topping.) For a garnish, add a simple dollop of gently sweetened whipped cream to complement the luscious fruit.

This recipe is forgiving, so rely on it as a template. You can switch in other fruits or berries to your taste, but try to provide a variety of textures and color. Ideally, use a vessel that allows for a deep, evenly distributed layer of fruit. Spread a thick layer of streusel topping evenly over the filling. The streusel can be made gluten-free by substituting gluten-free oats or quinoa oats and using a gluten-free flour blend. You can also make a double batch of the topping and refrigerate it for up to one week or freeze for up to one month for a future crisp.

Pear and Plum Crisp With Walnut Streusel

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

Streusel Topping:

1 cup regular or gluten-free oats

3/4 cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour blend)

3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut in cubes

1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped

Whipped Cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons Calvados or Poire Williams brandy (optional)

Filling:

5 ripe but still firm pears, such as Bartlett, Bosc or Anjou, peeled and cored, cut in 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

8 pitted dried prunes, thickly sliced

4 plums, cut in bite-size pieces

1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the topping: In the bowl of a food processor, combine all the topping ingredients except the butter and nuts. Pulse once or twice to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal and the butter pieces are pea-sized, 3 to 4 pulses. Transfer the streusel to a bowl and stir in the walnuts. Cover and refrigerate until use.

Prepare the whipped cream: Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer with a wire whisk until thickened. Add the sugar and brandy, if using. Continue to beat until soft peaks form. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until use. (The cream can be made up to 3 hours in advance. Refrigerate until use.)

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the pears in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice (this will prevent them from discoloring). Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Spoon the fruit into a 2- to 2 1/2-quart baking dish. Spread the streusel evenly over the top and around the edges.

Transfer to the oven and bake until the crisp is bubbly, the pears are soft, and the topping is golden brown, about 50 minutes. Remove and cool slightly to allow the flavors to develop and the filling to set. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with whipped cream.

Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.