I visited the musical US city with amazing free festivals and bizarre Tabasco attraction
WHEN scores of screaming women began leaving the theatre before the final act, Horace Logan had to think fast.
Rushing on stage, the music director declared firmly: “Elvis has left the building.”
A young Elvis had just finished his last official performance at the Louisiana Hayride music show and eager fans would rush outside to catch a glimpse of the King of Rock and Roll up close.
And so, the famous phrase was coined in north Louisiana, USA.
Touring Shreveport’s Municipal Auditorium — from where the show was broadcast — is a dream for any Elvis fan like me.
I stood on the very stage, in the exact spot where my idol once performed.
I took a peek into the dressing room where he would slick his hair into a greasy quiff, poked my head through the back door where he’d make a speedy getaway and posed for snaps in the hallway that he’d schmooze his female fans in.
This is reason enough to visit Shreveport, the first stop on my road trip through Louisiana. And it hammers home a strong adoration for music in this city.
In fact, I soon learned on my week-long adventure that it’s hard to pass through any major Louisiana town without some sort of late-night musical soiree or festival — and for the most part, they’re free.
For your first flavour of live music, head to Shreveport’s East Bank Arts District, where tunes accompany classic Cajun grub.
The area is home to the popular BeauxJax Crafthouse which dishes up a staple in these parts — crawfish.
Ask any local and they’ll eagerly share the best recipe for crawfish, often boiled in a large pot alongside corn and containing a heavy sprinkle of “seasoning” (a mishmash of herbs and spices that can be bought in any Louisianan supermarket).
Around 90 per cent of America’s crawfish harvest comes from this state, so you’ll see it on almost every menu.
That evening I sampled it in a deliciously gooey mac and cheese — one of the most popular dishes at the crafthouse.
Knock back locally-brewed ales with your dinner then enjoy a spot of axe-throwing, because why wouldn’t the two be the perfect partnership?!
Alligators’ shiny teeth
Axe, Sip, and Savor is attached to the crafthouse and was one of several firsts for me on my road adventure.
Ever had a po’boy? Me neither, until this trip. The sub-style sandwich was created in the 1920s by two brothers who dished out free sarnies to the “poor boys” who were striking railway workers.
Today, it’s a popular Louisianian lunch — and Old Tyme Grocery, in the city of Lafayette, serves them in abundance stuffed with meats and cheeses or, my personal favourite, fried shrimp.
On Avery Island, a 45-minute drive from the city centre sits the Tabasco Factory, which produces every bottle of the fiery sauce in the world.
Despite drizzling it on plenty of things, I’d never put much thought into what goes into making it. Turns out it’s just red peppers, salt and aged vinegar.
You can learn about the process on a factory tour then sample all the flavours, right up to the dangerously hot Scorpion that had my pal David dripping sweat.
For the less brave, like me, you can even try it in ice-cream form, which mellows out the heat — but only a little.
But the highlight of my trip happened an hour north of here in a mega swamp known as Atchafalaya Basin.
Far from being smelly and stagnant, this vast body of water was flanked by the lushest of willow trees.
Gliding in a whirring airboat, we disturbed a canteen (flock) of pink spoonbills which took to the sky en masse.
Then it was time for the main event. Our guide whacked his paddle on the water, until a scaly head surfaced, then another, until six alligators slithered towards us.
Soon they were within touching distance — although their shiny teeth meant no one would risk reaching out.
After a two-hour drive we arrived at our final stop, New Orleans.
Before you go exploring, book a Beyond the French Quarter food tour with No Secrets to see some of the top spots to eat.
And reserve a table at Commander’s Palace for the very popular Jazz Brunch — a three-hour, several-course affair with music, feather boas and sequins galore.
After several fiery Bloody Mary’s (hold the scorpion Tabasco), I was soon joining a conga line, weaving through the tables as I shimmied behind a string jazz band.
It didn’t take much persuading for me to carry on the party on Frenchman Street, where you’ll find weird and whacky bars.
Just bring comfy shoes as your feet will be stomping and hips will be twisting more than Elvis during his last performance at the Louisiana Hayride.
The King would be proud.
GO: LOUISIANA
GETTING THERE: Virgin Atlantic flies from Heathrow to Shreveport via Atlanta from around £600 return.
See virginatlantic.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Holiday Inn Express Shreveport Downtown are from around £80 per night.
See ihg.com.
Rooms at Springhill Suites Lafayette cost from £88 per night.
See springhillsuites.marriott.com.
Rooms at Hotel Peter and Paul in New Orleans cost from around £135 per night.
See ash.world/hotels/peter-and-paul.
OUT & ABOUT: Entry to the Tabasco Factory costs from $15.50 per adult or $12.50 per child including entry to the gift shop where you can sample flavours.
See tabasco.com.
A 90-minute alligator airboat tour costs from $65 per adult and £39 per child.
See basinlanding.com.
A three-hour Beyond the French Quarter food tour in New Orleans costs from $129pp including several meals and drinks.
See nosecretstours.com.