Restaurant review: Au Bon Plaisir, Nicosia
Capturing the essence of a meal through words is more often than not like trying to bottle lightning. It’s not just about the food on the plate. It’s also the atmosphere, the service, and the intangible magic that transforms a meal into an occasion.
French brasserie Au Bon Plaisir was one of the first places I visited after I moved to Nicosia over six years ago. It was basically love at first sight. What made the place special to me, food aside of course, was the authentic bistro vibe, the retro decor, the unpretentiousness of a restaurant that felt stuck in time, fuelling nostalgia and tradition.
It is now in a new location within old Nicosia, close to the busy Oxi roundabout but in a rather quiet side street. Accompanied by my faithful dining companion, I decided to give the place another go. And I’m happy to say it hasn’t lost its touch.
Starting our feast, we indulged in a Comté cheese quiche – a savoury ode to simplicity and quality. Accompanying it, Moules à la Marinière, a classic dish from the coastal regions of France, particularly the Normandy and Brittany areas, featuring fresh mussels cooked in a savoury broth made primarily of white wine, shallots, garlic and herbs. Great the first one, stunning the second, the shallots bringing out the best in the dish.
Encouraged by owner Gatienne’s infectious enthusiasm, we ventured into uncharted gustatory territory with the duck liver foie gras. A skeptic turned enthusiast, I finally gave in to its buttery allure, elevated by a Madeira demi-glace sauce, made with fortified wine, one of the trickiest ones to master. A true revelation, and hands down my favourite dish of the night.
Onto the mains, with some difficulties, but inspired by our choice of Sirloin Steak with garlic jacket potato and Confit De Canard, one of the most traditional French dishes, where duck legs are slowly cooked in their own fat until tender and then preserved. Both entries were excellent, but the duck, accompanied by roast potatoes wonderfully cooked in goose fat, was out of this world. Tender, rich, flavourful and, according to Gatienne, one of the place’s best sellers.
As the evening drew to a close, a Crème Brûlée arrived at our table, its sugar top expertly caramelised to a delicate crunch. Le mot juste!
Special mention must be made of the Kir Royal, a champagne cocktail with a touch of crème de cassis that accompanied our meal with understated elegance. Previously overlooked by yours truly, its subtle sweetness proved a perfect complement to the robust flavours of our dishes.
As I bid adieu to my very own culinary sanctuary, I found myself echoing, in spirit if not in accent, and unapologetically for an Italian…Vive la France!
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY French food
WHERE Au Bon Plaisir, Xanthis Xenierou 23, Nicosia
WHEN Monday to Saturday 7-11pm,
CONTACT 96 755111
HOW MUCH Salads €5-10, starters €7-23, mains €11-50, desserts €7-9