Heading to Paris for the Olympics? Here’s what to know
“Paris is always a good idea,” said Audrey Hepburn in the movie “Sabrina.”
Some 50 million tourists who visit the French capital every year seem to think so as well.
Perpetually at the very top of the most visited cities in the world, Paris further boosts its appeal this summer by hosting the Summer Olympics from July 26 to Aug. 11. The games alone are expected to draw between 2.3 and 3.1 million unique visitors with game tickets, about 64% of them from France, according to a study. It will be a busy summer, that is for sure!
If you go, for the Olympics or otherwise, one of the best ways to explore this city is to seek the less-obvious attractions, the more packed-in value, manageable in size, and distinct in focus. Among them: the Dior Gallery, the Musée de l’Orangerie, and the Rodin Museum.
Fashion
30 avenue Montaigne is a legendary address in Parisian fashion as it was the original office of Christian Dior. In the spring of 2022, this “office of dreams” of the creator turned into a fashion museum dedicated to his work and that of his six successors.
“The Dior Gallery is an immersive experience in the story of one of the most important haute couture houses in Paris,” Florence Müller shared. The iconic fashion curator is a familiar name to Denver, where she led the textile and fashion department of the Denver Art Museum for six years and brought innovative exhibits to the Mile High City, including the very successful “Dior: From Paris to the World” in 2018.
“You can complete this experience with the visit of the boutique, which is next door, and a lunch at the exquisite restaurant Mr. Dior,” Müller added. The cafe at the top of the gallerie is also a great option for a bite. Purchase timed tickets in advance (recommended) or be willing to wait in the standby line for visitors without timed tickets. (It is definitely worth it.)
Museums
Monet: Often left off the list of top must-see attractions, the Musée de l’Orangerie deserves the spotlight for its exceptionally unique collection, Monet’s eight large-format water lilies, as well as its central location, at the end of the Tuileries Gardens, backing into Place de la Concorde.
Inside the 1850s building, two softly-lit oval meditative rooms are home to the paintings that were offered by the impressionist painter to the French state initially the day after the armistice of Nov. 11, 1918.
“Seeing these enormous paintings, in rooms designed for them, was an unexpected lovely surprise,” shared Kristan Vaughn, a Denver resident who was in Paris in February. “The museum attendants may shush you as they take their jobs quite seriously, but it’s impossible to get upset among such beauty.”
The eight panels are all 6 1/2 feet tall but differ in length based on the curved walls of the egg-shaped rooms. They are breathtaking, and a visit here is worth it just for them. The impressionist and post-impressionist collection gives extra reasons to add the Orangerie to your itinerary. Advanced timed tickets are required, including for holders of the Paris Museum Pass or the Carte Blanche.
Rodin: Set on the Left Bank and opened more than a century ago, the Rodin Museum is primarily dedicated to the works of the French sculptor, exhibited inside a 1732 building, initially a home to a financier, then residence of a duchess, a high ranking military office, the Russian embassy and a boarding school for girls. In the early 1900s, Rodin rented several rooms for his work, then lobbied for the building to become a museum dedicated to it.
The most iconic pieces of his artistic career — The Thinker, The Kiss and The Gates of Hell — are housed here. A highlight is the gorgeous gardens, in which several of Rodin’s sculptures are exhibited in nature. Nearly 150 bronzes, marbles and plasters are part of the collection at this jewel of a museum. Tickets can be purchased online or at the entrance.
Dining
Along with art and fashion, food makes Paris stand out from many other destinations. There is no shortage of classic restaurants that stand out for quality, service, and hundreds of years of tradition, but there are also new culinary additions that visitors should pursue.
Among the sure bets are casual options like the famed falafel at L’As du Falafel or the unique Bretonne crepes at one of the Breizh Cafe locations; the literary cafes like Les Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore; the staple brasseries like Au Pied du Cochon, Bofinger, one of the art deco Bouillons (bringing great value also!) and La Coupole; or the all-out Michelin starred experiences like Alain Passard’s Arpège and Pierre Gagnaire.
Aside from L’As du Falafel, it’s best to make reservations everywhere else and required at the last two.
Brand new worthwhile additions to the culinary landscape include Greg Marchand’s L’Altro Frenchie, an Italian restaurant, sister to 15-year-old Frenchie and Oobatz, a fantastic pizza venture from Dan Pear and the team at Rigmarole, which recently opened in the youthful 11th Arrondissement. For a modern touch on classic cuisine with no fuss and a hip vibe, don’t miss the gorgeous Cloche, which owners Victor Cohen, Arthur Cohen and Olivier Leone opened just a year ago.
The splashiest pastry to hit Paris this year, covered by everyone from the BBC to The New York Times, is the Crookie, a croissant-chocolate chip cookie hybrid created by chef Stéphane Louvard. There are some copies around, but the original is baked at Maison Louvard.
The details
If you haven’t yet booked a hotel, there’s still a chance. Pick a location convenient to the attractions that you are seeking to visit and keep in mind that many hotels (and most apartments on Airbnb or Vrbo) don’t have air conditioning. Hotel occupancy as of last week was at 80%, according to CoStar’s latest Forward STAR data.
Traffic and transport restrictions are in place all over Paris due to events planned for the 2024 Games, so consulting the official websites of attractions for guidance is wise. Getting around the city will be challenging, particularly around the peak of demand during the games when fans enter and leave stadiums. Three options stand out as reliable: Metro, bike and walk.
The subway system here is tremendously efficient and interconnected. It is also crowded at times and mostly non-air conditioned. Those with the newest iPhones can purchase and store metro tickets in their Apple wallet, a step that can save a lot of time. An alternative is purchasing an EasyNavigo card that is easily rechargeable. Or just buy regular tickets, but brace for a possible line or the lack of a machine at your chosen metro entrance.
Biking is very safe in Paris with many protected bike lanes and an ecosystem in which cyclists are expected and respected. Electric bikes make life even easier, with Lime being a top choice as bikes are well-maintained and convenient. Download the app and set up an account ahead of time if you plan to use it.
The RER commuter rail system is trickier due to labor disruptions. The bus system and taxis will be complicated by serious road closures, especially near central landmarks like the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides and the Alexandre III bridge. But if you need a cab, the G7 taxi app will be a lifesaver.
Getting to Paris from Denver is easier than ever with a direct flight operated four days a week by Air France. Originally launched three years ago as a summer seasonal route running three times a week from April to October, the 9 hour and 20 minute flight is now available year-round and four times a week, for a portion of 2024.
Need an airplane read? Grab a copy of “The Paris Novel,” a new book by famed food writer Ruth Reichl, and get inspired by the adventures of a young woman searching for herself while on a first trip to the city.