Carmel-by-the Sea weekend: Exploring Northern California’s most idyllic coastal retreat
The crown jewel of the Monterey peninsula, Carmel-by-the-Sea has been long known for its natural beauty, fairytale cottages, art-filled boutiques, gourmet dining and pristine white sand beach.
This tiny town and the immediate surroundings — Carmel Highlands, Carmel Valley, Pebble Beach, Pacific Grove and Monterey — became a magnet for creative types after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and well into the mid-20th century.
Residents have included an A-list of West Coast writers, poets, architects, actors, photographers, musicians and artists. Local luminaries have included Doris Day, Betty White, Robinson Jeffers, Ansel Adams, Edward Weston, Joan Fontaine and Clint Eastwood, who also served as mayor. More recently, actor Brad Pitt relocated to this extraordinary retreat on the Northern California coast.
Carmel-by-the Sea is tiny — just one-square mile in size — but you can easily spend a weekend in beach-going, wandering its grid of boutique- and gallery-packed streets, exploring the hidden courtyards and passageways (most with their own quaint names), and sampling its abundance of eateries, fine dining options and wine tasting rooms.
Free maps and brochures are available from the Carmel Visitors Center in the Carmel Plaza on Ocean Avenue between Junipero and Mission streets. First-time Carmel-by-the-Sea visitors will notice there are no street numbers or street lights per the town rules — at least for now — adding to its quirky charm. (Best bring a flashlight for evening strolls in the neighborhoods, though.)
Exploring the village
A great start to a Carmel-by-the Sea escape is a self-guided walking tour of the city’s famous fairytale cottages, featuring whimsical early 20th century designs by Hugh Comstock, Robert Stanton and M.J. Murphy. Most of these cottages are right out of a children’s storybook with their elaborate stonework, steeply pitched roofs, arched doors and windows, rolled eaves and elaborate stone chimneys. A hobbit with deep pockets would love to live here.
Continue down Ocean Avenue (the town’s main thoroughfare) to the coast and explore the gallery and boutique-packed streets. One must-do stop is for a coffee and baked goods at the Carmel Bakery, founded in 1899 and California’s oldest bakery still in its original location.
Traditional 20th-century photography fans will delight in the Photography West Gallery, featuring prints by some of the West’s most famous film photographers, including Ansel Adams, Imogen Cunningham and the Weston clan (Edward and Brett), along with contemporary large format film photographers like Christopher Burkett.
On Thursdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., be sure to check out the delightful Carmel-by-the- Sea Farmers Market, which draws a wide array of produce and artisan food vendors from the Monterey County region. Browse the fresh stone fruit, greens, local honey, certified organic fresh farm produce, eggs, plants, fresh cut flowers and specialty items such as olive oil, hummus, gourmet popcorn, pizza and bread.
A new beachside hotel and Michelin-starred dining
Carmel-by-the-Sea has numerous upscale lodging options, and the newest is the Carmel Beach Hotel, which opened in June 2023.
Originally a series of 1930s-era beach bungalows, this cozy 26-room lodge has a breezy,
beachy vibe and is just a half a block from lovely Carmel Beach. Located in a quiet residential neighborhood, the hotel also features a unique spa that offers everything from facials of caviar and collagen to deep body treatments utilizing local organic, CBD and Shea butter massage products. A delightful alfresco breakfast or beach-ready breakfast basket is included with all overnight stays.
The hotel’s e-bikes are the perfect way to explore the coast on nearby Scenic Road, where you’ll pass the historic Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Clinton Walker House (his only house on the coast), as well as the iconic midcentury modern Butterfly House. At the end of the road, find yourself at picnic-perfect Carmel River State Beach, where the Carmel River meets the ocean.
The Carmel Beach Hotel is a sister property to the lauded Relais & Chateaux stay, L’Auberge Carmel. That property also houses Carmel’s premier two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Aubergine, whose acclaimed fine dining tasting menus ($250), served five nights a week, are created by chef Justin Cogley.
Michelin-starred dining can also be found Carmel’s Chez Noir, an establishment so exclusive they don’t even have a phone number. You’ll need to make reservations online to score a table for that $150 prix-fixe menu. Run by chef Jonny Black and his wife, Monique Black, Chez Noir earned a Michelin star in 2023 and 2024 and was a James Beard award finalist for “Best New Restaurant” this year.
No matter how you approach Carmel-by-the-Sea — as a beach lover, gourmand, art and architecture aficionado or simply as a people watcher — this coastal charmer will pull you back to Monterey Bay time and time again.
If You Go
Carmel Bakery: Open from 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. weekdays and until 7 p.m. weekends on Ocean Avenue between Dolores and Lincoln streets; https://chefpepe.com/carmel-bakery/.
Photography West: Open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday on Dolores Street between Ocean and Seventh avenues; https://photographywest.com/
Farmers Market: This Thursday market is held on Sixth Avenue between Junipero and Mission streets; carmelbytheseafm.com.
Carmel Beach Hotel: Rooms start at $550. Find the hotel at the corner of San Antonio Avenue and 13th Street; https://carmelbeachhotel.com/.
Carmel River State Beach: Open from 8 a.m. to sunset at 26478 Carmelo St.; www.parks.ca.gov/
L’Auberge Carmel: Rooms start at $633. Find the hotel at Monte Verde Street and Seventh Avenue; https://laubergecarmel.com/. The Michelin-starred Aubergine restaurant is open from 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday; https://auberginecarmel.com/.
Chez Noir: Open from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday on Fifth Avenue between San Carlos and Dolores streets; www.cheznoircarmel.com.