Taste-Off: The best Trader Joe’s frozen Indian entrees– and the ones to skip

If last night’s dinner is a blur, and tonight’s is more of the same, it may be time to hit the freezer aisle at Trader Joe’s for an alternative. Some flavor-packed Indian entrees, perhaps, that can be ready to eat in minutes — and are far too tasty to forget.

Since the company introduced its first frozen Indian entree, Chicken Tikka Masala, in 2009, Trader Joe’s has leaned hard into Indian food. It now produces a lineup of 10 frozen entrees inspired by popular dishes from various regions of India. These heat-and-eat meals include something for nearly every palate. Some are spicy hot, some are mild. Several include chicken or meat, others are vegetarian or vegan. Most include a side of rice.

The fine-print on the packages of these meals offers little info about where they are made, but the company’s website and online sources suggest that some are made in India by a company called Tasty Bite; others are made by a small U.S.-based company. The butter chicken comes from Canada.

Curious to know how these popular frozen Indian curries and sides compare to restaurant fare, we cooked up an Indian food feast, Trader Joe’s-style. We filled the oven with every frozen Indian entree the company sells, then tasted, hoping to discover some great flavors worth the freezer space.

Despite the appetizing photos on the packages, it turns out that not every dish is a success. The best are versions that have surprisingly authentic flavors; they’re on par with restaurant fare. Others, sadly, are disappointingly bland .. or sweet … or flat-out icky.

Here’s the scoop on the most appetizing Indian-inspired frozen entrees at Trader Joe’s and the ones to skip. Nutrition info refers to the entire tray inside each box, which ranges from servings of 8.5 to 12.5 ounces.

Baingan Bharta

The earthy flavor of eggplant wrapped in layers of smoke and spice make this a vegetable dish to remember. It’s silky and rich, with bits of roasted onion in the mix. 300 calories, 24 g fat, 940 mg sodium, 14 g sugar, 4 g protein. $3.49 for 10 ounces. (4 stars)

Palak Paneer

One spoonful of these buttery cubes of paneer covered in creamy, pureed spinach with a sprinkle of masala is simply not enough. This dish hits all the notes of a great restaurant version. 410 calories, 31 g fat, 1010 mg sodium, 5 g sugar, 20 g protein. $3.99 for 10 ounces. (4 stars)

Chana Masala

Perfectly cooked garbanzos stewed in a spicy, tomato- and onion-forward sauce makes for a delicious bite. This is great Indian-inspired food. 370 calories, 19 g fat, 1140 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 12 g protein. $2.99 for 10 ounces. (3½ stars)

Lamb Vindaloo with Basmati Rice

Fans of lamb will love this tangy, spicy braise served with a side of fluffy rice. It is balanced and has a serious kick of heat. 390 calories, 490 mg sodium, 5 g sugar, 21 g protein. $5.49 for 9.5 ounces. (3½ stars)

Fiery Chicken Vindaloo with Turmeric Rice

This Goan-inspired meal is ideal for anyone in the mood for an intense mouthful of spice. While the chicken is decidedly dry, the sauce is hot-hot and has a terrific blast of flavor that pairs well with the bold yellow, turmeric-spiked rice. 360 calories,13 g fat, 620 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 23 g protein. $4.49 for 9.5 ounces. (3 stars)

Chicken Tikka Masala with Cumin-flavored Basmati Rice

While not perfect, this version of the incredibly popular Indian dish satisfies. The chicken is dry, and the creamy sauce is slightly sweet, but the flavors are close to authentic. Note that the cumin-flavored rice needs an extra few minutes to soften. 360 calories, 14 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 21 g protein. $4.49 for 8.5 ounces. (2½ stars)

Butter Chicken with Basmati Rice

This extra-large portion of rice and butter chicken is a great choice for those who prefer mild flavors. The chicken is lusciously tender, but the thin, watery consistency of the sauce is problematic. 400 calories, 13 g fat, 640 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 24 g protein. $4.49 for 12.5 ounces. (2½ stars)

Paneer Tikka Masala with Spinach Basmati Rice

Flavorful spinach rice and tasty paneer can’t make up for the bland, undeveloped sauce in this dish. 410 calories, 23 g fat, 760 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 15 g protein. $3.69 for 9 ounces. (1½ stars)

Vegan Tikka Masala with Cumin Rice

The cumin rice is terrific, but the pasty balls of grain floating in sweet, tomato-forward sauce make this dish just short of disgusting. The idea of a vegan tikka masala is great, but this recipe needs serious help. 390 calories, 17 g fat, 800 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 12 g protein. $4.29 for 9.5 ounces. (½ a star)

Vegetable Biryani with Vegetable Dumplings

Craving Indian? Not this! The vegetarian “dumplings” taste like moistened bread mashed with spice. Even more disappointing is the rice, which has none of the caramelized charm or seasonings of a true biryani. 420 calories, 12 g fat, 1380 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 10 g protein. $2.99 for 10 ounces. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.