Why Do Climbers Skip Stopper Knots on Rappel?
Last week, respected alpinist Balin Miller rappelled off the end of his rope on El Capitan and fell some 2,400 feet to his death. The nature of the tragedy was all too familiar for the climbing community, which in 2019, lost Brad Gobright to a similar accident in El Potrero Chico. Rappelling errors remain a leading cause of fatalities among climbers.
In general, rappelling off the end of one’s rope can be prevented by tying stopper knots at the ends. So why do the pros—or any climbers—skip this all-important safety step?
Avoiding stuck ropes
One reason climbers may opt to skip stopper knots when rappelling, especially on multi-pitches, is that these knots can make the rope more likely to get stuck in a crack instead of cleanly reaching the bottom of a pitch. While this is a valid concern, one option to avoid a stuck rope while rappelling safely is to attach the ends of your rope to a gear loop on your harness. While this technique, known as the “saddlebag,” is one extra step, it prevents your rope from getting stuck, avoids throwing a rope on a party below, and precludes you from rapping off the ends.
Complacency
Climbers may also forgo knots in the ends of their rappel rope due to psychological factors. In an analysis of trends in human errors across 75 years of accident reporting, researcher Valerie Karr found that “familiarity” indeed served as a pronounced reason why experienced climbers bypass safety measures like backup knots.
In Dr. Karr’s study, which appears in the new edition of Accidents in North American Climbing, she writes, “The more familiar a task feels, the more likely you are to overlook crucial steps. A process called risk desensitization has long been observed in fields like occupation safety.”
Fatigue
Fatigue and pressure also emerged as a key human fallibility area contributing to climbing accidents in Dr. Karr’s research. “After making many decisions or facing sustained stress, people become less able to self-regulate and more prone to risk-taking or error,” she explains. After being on the wall for several days, Miller was likely physically and mentally exhausted. Dr. Karr emphasizes that this fatigue often builds and culminates with accidents on the descent. “Many climbers get hurt when their focus and energy wane, usually on the descent,” she writes in ANAC.
While we’ll never know exactly what led to Miller’s accident, we can all take a moment to review our rappelling practices and consider how we can up our safety measures on the descent. Below are a few worthwhile rappelling reads to that end.
Basics of rappelling
Rappelling 101
Setup tips, a rappelling safety checklist, and more helpful info from pro climbers Alexa Flower and Miranda Oakley.
6 Safety Techniques for Rappelling
Pro climber Mark Synnott shares various descent techniques that he’s learned the hard way over decades of experience.
Don’t Get Your Rap Ropes Stuck
Get four strategies for avoiding stuck ropes when you’re rappelling—plus tips on what to do if your rope does get stuck.
Rappelling Tips for More Experienced Climbers
How to Create a Closed System When You Rappel
Step-by-step instructions and a gear list for rigging a closed rappel system to significantly reduce your risk.
A More Efficient Way to Descend Multi-pitch Routes
AMGA Guide Steve Banks explains how employing a combo of lowering one climber with the second rappelling can increase speed and safety on the descent.
What to Do If You Miss a Rappel Anchor
Don’t unclip and downclimb—a climbing guide offers two self-rescue solutions if this happens to you.
More rappelling resources for intermediate/advanced climbers
- 4 Reasons Not to Simul Rappel
- Why You Should Learn Advanced Rappel Techniques
- How to Lengthen Your Single Rappel Rope
Rappelling stories and accidents
Why I Lied About Rappelling Off the End of My Rope
Former Climbing editor Steve Potter shares a personal story that illuminates the hubris, shame, and psychological factors at play in climbing and safety.
Years After My Mentor Died in a Rappelling Accident, I Retraced His Final Footsteps
After losing her friend to a rappelling accident and her father to a heart attack, Corey Buhay grapples with some big questions.
Lessons Learned From a 150-Foot Fall on Rappel
Former Climbing editor-in-chief Duane Raleigh shares a harrowing rappelling story that he narrowly survived—and what he learned.
More rappelling stories
- Climber Falls 130 Feet to Their Death Due to “Equipment Failure”
- Lucky Climber Survives Serious Rappelling Mistake
- 21-Year-Old Dies Rappelling on Devils Tower
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