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Tackle household jobs while in lockdown with 17 simple (and not so simple) home improvement tasks
THIS is traditionally the biggest DIY weekend of the year as people take advantage of the Easter bank holidays. As we will be spending it in lockdown, there has rarely been a better time to tackle those household jobs that have been niggling at us. Charlie White bought a dilapidated Victorian cottage in 2010 and […]
THIS is traditionally the biggest DIY weekend of the year as people take advantage of the Easter bank holidays.
As we will be spending it in lockdown, there has rarely been a better time to tackle those household jobs that have been niggling at us.
Charlie White bought a dilapidated Victorian cottage in 2010 and set up his YouTube channel to film his projects.
His easy-to-follow videos showing simple home fixes have had 19million views.
Charlie says: “I’ve always found DIY empowering, but right now it has the added dimension of keeping us occupied, fit and healthy.”
But he advises readers to be careful – the last thing the NHS needs is a rush of DIY injuries.
Here, Charlie reveals some of the easiest jobs to be tackled and gives each a rating out of four, with four being the most difficult.
Wash your windows inside and out
In addition to a large bucket, washing up liquid and rags, invest in a squeegee.
An easy solution is to add a squirt of washing up liquid to the bucket of water.
Use a large sponge for scrubbing and finish with a squeegee.
For the inside windows and shower screens, a Karcher window vac is fabulous for sucking up soap residue.
RATING: 1/4
Wall marks
Magic sponges are made from melamine foam, and when slightly moistened they work like really fine sandpaper and are much more effective at getting rid of marks such as crayon, felt tips, pencils, scratches and grease than your typical household wipes or cloths soaked in detergent.
But don’t use them on high gloss or varnished surfaces.
Remember, non-vinyl based contract matt emulsions are not hard-wearing and will quickly wipe away so approach these with caution.
To use, wet the sponge and gently squeeze it so that it retains water without dripping.
Rub the mark and watch it disappear.
As soon as the stain has gone, stop rubbing, otherwise you’ll take the paint off.
RATING: 1/4
Clear gutters
One of the biggest causes of damp on external walls is gutter problems.
Use a ladder and make sure it’s secured before climbing up.
Consider getting a ladder stand off (available with click-and-collect from Screwfix) as this stops you leaning the ladder directly against the gutters and provides increased stability.
Balloon leaf guards are a sensible investment as they stop leaves, moss and other large objects going down the drainpipes.
You will need rubber gloves, a garden trowel, a bucket and a small brush. Get stuck in to clear obstructions.
RATING: 3/4
Oil creaky door
Buy a small bottle of 3-in-1 oil or alternatively spray the door hinges with furniture polish.
Once you’ve sprayed, open and shut the door a few times and the squeak will be gone.
RATING: 1/4
Revamp garden furniture
Clean the furniture with white or methylated spirit. Sand the old surface with sandpaper (120–150 grit) and wipe down with a damp cloth.
If your furniture is ornate, you may want to use steel wool to get into the awkward areas.
Put on some rubber gloves and stir the wood stain. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin, applying the stain with a sponge, brush or lint-free cloth.
Use smooth movements, following the grain and apply the wood colour evenly.
Leave to dry according to the manufacturers’ instructions.
RATING: 2/4
Pressure wash patio
You can buy pressure washers online from £50 from a number of retailers including Homebase, Screwfix, Amazon and Argos.
Before you start, clear any debris from the filter and connect any accessories.
Run water through the washer for one minute to prime the system and remove any air.
Squeeze the spray wand trigger to bleed water pressure., then fire away.
Keep an eye on where the waste water sprays on to, though. It can travel – even over fences.
RATING: 1/4
Sourcing safely during lockdown
YOU can still order most DIY essentials online, although delivery might be slower. Some retailers offer a click and collect service.
B&Q and WICKES: These have a limited range of stock for click and collect and home delivery.
SCREWFIX: Click and collect for essential orders and home delivery.
HOMEBASE: Limited range of stock for home delivery.
IRONMONGERY DIRECT: Full home delivery service.
Switch to LED light bulbs
LED lights offer an energy-efficient solution for your home.
Bayonet (push and twist) and Edison (screw in) are the two most common types, but if you are in any doubt as to what you need, look for information on the bulb.
Most online retailers offer assistance to help you make the right choice.
RATING: 1/4
Re-silicone the shower
Degrease joints with methylated spirit, acetone or CT1 Multisolve spray.
Choose an appropriate silicone (eg. in the bathroom use mould-resistant).
Use a Cramer Fugi 5 silicone profiling tool. Look for the greatest gap and select the smallest profile shape to cover the gap with a 2/3mm overlap each side of the joint.
Cut the silicone nozzle at 90 degrees and push the silicone into the joint. Use the adapter for smooth lines over transverse joints. Work in short sections.
Do the vertical corner joint first. Wait for this to set then do the horizontal joints, working from right to left (or left to right if you’re left-handed).
Clean the profiling tool with a paper towel after each short run, and more thoroughly with a wet wipe or cloth when you are finished.
RATING: 4/4
WHAT NOT TO DO WITH SHOWER
- Don’t use tape
- Don’t use your finger
- Don’t shape silicone in a concave profile
- Don’t use water and detergent
- Don’t cut the nozzle at 45 degrees
- Don’t pull the nozzle along the joint
Restore walls & skirting boards
PAINTING BOARDS: For most skirting boards, a two-inch (5cm) brush is ideal, or use a mini roller with a simulated mohair roller sleeve for the flat sections.
Degrease the skirting board with sugar soap. Make sure you rinse thoroughly and leave it to dry. Lightly sand the surface using a 120-180 grit sandpaper.
Tape up the edges with masking tape round the edge of the floor. If the floor is carpeted, press the edge of the tape down, ensuring paint doesn’t get under the tape.
Start painting, using a durable paint, such as satin or gloss. Cut into the top of the skirting first, applying the paint evenly and working in manageable sections. Leave to dry. Apply a second coat.
Once the second coat is fully dry (about 24 hours) remove the tape.
MOST READ IN FABULOUS
FILLING DENTS AND CRACKS IN WALLS: Trim loose paintwork using a Stanley knife. Apply a diluted layer of PVA using a small paint brush.
This gives the section to be repaired the best chance of adhering to the filler.
Fillers such as Gyproc EasiFill are my choice for a repair like this. You’ll need to mix with water into a smooth paste and apply with a continental filling knife or similar.
Go over the area several times. For hairline cracks in the paintwork simply make several passes over the crack with the filler knife, removing all residue.
Scrape away any excess filler to minimise sanding but leave the filler a little proud of the repair if you can (if not, don’t worry, you can apply a second coat later).
Leave to set for at least 40 minutes or until the filler has dried, showing no damp patches. Sand the filled area gently in a circular motion with 180-grade sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood.
Ensure that the surface is perfectly smooth before the next step. Check the paint tin to ensure it can be watered down first.
Then apply a watered down coat of emulsion (this is not necessary for filled hairline cracks) using a small roller. Leave to dry.
If you have the original top coat paint for the wall, paint over the repaired paintwork with this, using a small roller. If you’re lucky you will be able to spot-paint just the repaired area.
However if the newly painted area is obvious (or if you no longer have the original paint) then you will have to paint the whole wall – with a 9inch roller or similar.
RATING: 3/4
7 pretty easy plumbing solutions
Plumber James Lawrence shares tips and advice on his highly entertaining YouTube channel youtube.com/user/plumberparts
- BLEED your radiators. if you have a pressurised system, make sure the pressure is set at roughly 1 bar for a standard cold (unused) system.
- CHECK the TRVs (radiator valves) are free and moving easily. Remove the plastic head (the dial with numbers on it) and give each pin a light wiggle and a spray with lubricant. Rebuild.
- REMOVE your water softener, use a scoop and store the salt in a bucket and clean out the brine chamber. Refill with salt and do a manual regeneration (this might need the instructions for the softener but it’s usually just one button).
- TAKE the traps off your basins and sinks and give them a clean. Don’t forget to wash your hands for at least 20 seconds afterwards.
- CLEAN behind your radiators. Make sure you clean the fins too. For easy access to awkward spots, I use a piece of string with a cloth attached.
- CHECK that the valve for your cold water stop cock works. It’s usually under the kitchen sink. If it’s too hard to move, make a note to call a plumber when this is all over.
- INSULATE pipes in the loft and airing cupboard. Especially if you have loft insulation, make sure the pipes are nicely covered. Wear a mask. It can be a tricky job but will save you money in the long run.
RATING: 1/4
£200 ‘new’ kitchen
Charlie recently revamped his kitchen cabinets at home.
Here is his eight-step guide:
- DO YOUR RESEARCH: The longer you take to prepare, the more successful it’s going to be.
- GET THE RIGHT TOOLS: Sugar soap; sanding block and sandpaper 120-180 grit; masking tape; two-part wood filler; screwdriver/drill-driver; mini roller & simulation mohair (gloss) roller sleeve; 12mm paint brush; Zinsser B-I-N primer sealer stain killer; top coat (see below). I bought 38mm Victorian turned cabinet knobs – polished chrome, polished chrome cabinet cup pull handles with 76mm centres and replacement magnetic catches from Ironmongery Direct.
- REMOVE THE UNITS AND HARDWARE: You’ll do a more professional job if you take hinges, magnet catches and knobs off your cabinets before you paint.
- DEGREASE: Sugar soap removes grease and doesn’t leave residue once it is rinsed off.
- SAND: Lightly sand the surfaces. It gives your primer coat a good key. Use 120 grit for hand-painted units and 180 or above for spray-painted units. Fill any scuffs, dents or other damage in the wood work with wood filler.
- PRIME: I love Zinsser B-I-N. Use a roller to put it on. Clean tools with methylated spirits.
- TOP COAT: I used a Valspar premium wood and metal interior eggshell top coat from B&Q and mixed to a Farrow And Ball colour called Railings. A satin finish paint would have been more hard-wearing as the Valspar has chipped in a few places. I used a paint brush to get into the corners and mini roller without a simulation mohair sleeve for the main part of cupboard doors.
- FIT THE HARDWARE: Fix any bent hinges and replace broken magnet catches. The chrome knobs come with varying bolt lengths to suit different thicknesses of drawer. They are soft brass so can be easily cut to size with a pair of pliers.
I made a template out of baking paper to get the cup handles in the right place on each drawer.
The point to remember is that the cup handles have to be set above centre on the drawer so that when you look down at them they appear central.
After a few weekends of painting the job was complete and it felt like we had a new kitchen for less than £200.
RATING: 3/4