Inside Britain’s ‘loneliest’ village with no pub, no shops and no wifi – and where locals use a different calendar
BRITAIN’S most remote island is inhabited by only 30 residents and has none of the local amenities most of us take for granted.
The isolated island of Foula lies roughly 20 miles off the west coast of Shetland, and has been described as a “hard island for hard people”.
Foula, sometimes referred to as Ultima Thule, can be reached by ferry or a flight from the Shetland Mainland.
There is no wi-fi, no pubs or bars, there is not even a shop to buy basic supplies from.
Locals rely wholly on deliveries via sea or air, which due to the unpredictable nature of the weather and exceptionally high gales can sometimes be problematic.
Speaking to the BBC, Sheila Gear, a resident of Foula for almost 60 years, said: “It’s only really late April or May that the wind finally stops. You have to be well-stocked, but you’re used to it if you live here.”
Unpredictable weather is not the only challenge faced by islanders, the great suka, or bonxie as it is known locally is huge, brown gull-like bird that has “the instincts of a predator”.
The bonxie has been known to attack lambs, and even Shetland pony foals, using its “barbed” beak to peck relentlessly at its victims.
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Even Sheila who has spent most of her life around the birds finds their characteristics to be “challenging bordering on disgusting”.
She said: “The real problem is that fishing boats discarding catch has created an artificially high population, beyond what the natural ecosystem can support.
“Where’s that going to end? It’s not sustainable.”
The birds fly south for winter, and return in the spring, giving residents and livestock a well deserved rest from their predatory antics.
Sheila said: “We’re still really glad to see them come back each time.
“They’re part of life here and we’re fond of them, even if we’re not so fond of their behaviour.”
There is a limited amount of tourism on the island, with just two guest houses and a few camping sites, but visitors must make sure to bring everything with them.
The majority of those who visit Foula are birdwatchers, drawn by the tens of thousands of birds who inhabit the island over summer.
Outsiders know little about life on the island, but one thing that is know is that residents still adhere to a version of the Julian calendar, after refusing to change to the more modern Gregorian calendar in 1752.
It was also the last place in the UK to speak a Norse language, Norn.
Norn died out when smallpox hit the island in 18 Century, killing the majority of residents, when Foula was repopulated by English-Speaking Shetlanders, Norn was lost.
Despite the difficulties the island might have, there is exceptional beauty to be found, especially on the north coast.
Here you will find Garda, a three-pronged sea stack under constant attack from the ocean.
It is also where you will find the Da Kame, the site of most of Foula’s birds nests, nestled among the highest cliffs in Europe.
Speaking of life on the island Sheila said: “It can be a difficult place, especially in winter.
“There’s the darkness and the continual wind and rain.
“Just going outside can be very difficult, and yet you can grow to miss it.
“The first time I went abroad was to Madeira and I found myself missing the weather. It was ridiculous.”
Magnus Holbourn, owner of the Burns cottage described the island as: “not a place where humanity is in the ascendency.
“It’s just clinging on.”
