From crystal coves to hilltop forts – Island-hopping from pretty Parga has views aplenty, says Antoinette Cumberbatch
As I bounce along the glistening waters of the Ionian Sea in a speed boat, I can’t hide my huge smile from Chris, our captain for the day.
The water’s crystal clear, there are gorgeous natural coves aplenty – perfect shelter for tranquil swimming – and it feels like I’m island-hopping in the Indian Ocean.
In fact, I’m only 20 minutes from mainland Greece.
Seas the day
Yes, while the celebs tend to flock to Greece’s stunning Aegean Islands, I’ve found a lesser-known gem in Parga, nestled on the north-west coast, just an hour’s drive from Preveza airport.
The coastline here is breathtaking and the nearby Ionian islands of Paxos and Antipaxos are just as pretty – making for a great day trip.
After one of several swims, we lunch at Antipaxos’ Cedrus Beach Bar, tucking into delicious grilled shrimps, £15.50, with Greek salad, £8.50, just a hop and a step from the beach.
Boat hire starts from £70 a day, plus fuel, for four people (Panosboatsandtrips.com).
Back in Parga’s Old Town, its labyrinthine alleys are filled with tiny boutiques that are bursting with colourful crockery and bags, plus buzzing bars like Veranda, with its stunning rooftop views of the harbour and excellent cocktails (Facebook.com/Verandabar).
A cute miniature train travels through the town as I pop into Irida for butter-soft leather goods, then Deli Agropolis to stock up on local chutneys, spirits and olive oil (Facebook.com/deliagropolis.gr).
I also fall for the silver trinkets and gems at artisanal Argo down by the port (Argoparga.gr).
Castle on the hill
Later, on a walking tour with locals Evrynomi and Anna, I learn about Parga’s Venetian history.
We stop by the 11th- century castle on the hilltop, and watch paddleboarders make their way to the charming Panagia Chapel on an islet opposite the harbour, before we feast on delicious hand-made tiropita – a traditional flat cheese pie – drizzled with honey.
Two-hour tours cost £100 for four people (Preveza.edu.gr).
It’s an easy 20-minute stroll, or a £2.50 ferry ride, along the coastline back to my base, Parga Beach Resort, which sits in a pretty bay.
Its low-rise bungalows and villas are dotted along paths of fragrant fauna, banana trees and pomegranate plants.
Rooms are in calm, neutral tones with locally made bathroom products, and the Blossom spa offers fantastic holistic massages, £55 for 50 minutes.
At the hotel’s Thalassa restaurant, I tuck into grilled octopus with Greek fava and olives, while sipping Blackbeard’s Elixir –white rum, pineapple juice, coconut cream and lime juice, £8.
Later, at the open-air eatery Alselea on the beach, the seafood ravioli with bisque sauce, £14, and almond pie and chocolate cremeux, £8.50, hit the spot for both taste and romance.
One day I take part in a complimentary outdoor yoga class overlooking the ocean, before setting up camp on the golden sands of Valtos beach, mere steps away.
And that’s where I stay for the day.
Greece really is the word…
BTW
Hit the mountains for freshwater dips at stunning Acheron Springs, 40 minutes’ drive away – it’s a hikers’ paradise.
FYI
Double rooms at Parga Beach Resort cost from £105 B&B (Pargabeachresort.gr).
Flights from the UK to Prevesa cost from £37 return.
