I went to the European city with the ‘worlds best pizza’ and famous football player – it cost me £19 to get there
DIEGO MARADONA’S eyes are gazing down at me from every street corner – from shrines, mosaics, murals and flags.
His legacy is inescapable, with a song about him echoing through the streets of Naples since the Eighties, when the diminutive Argentinian unexpectedly moved there, bringing success for its struggling Serie A side.
Now Maradona shirts are sold in every other shop, while Italy’s favourite drink, the Aperol Spritz, has even been given a twist in his honour, with glowing blue Curacao changing it to the team colour.
It’s easy to get drawn into the Maradona mania here, but he isn’t the only person with hands of God worth celebrating in Naples. There are at least two other men whose handiwork I’m far more partial to.
The first is Diego Vitagliano, whose pizzeria has been named the best in the world by online network 50 Top Pizza, “the first guide of the best pizzerias in the world”. It would have been rude not to see what he had to offer. I ordered a classic margherita, simply made with buffalo mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil.
It’s difficult to comprehend how so few components can combine to create such a magical flavour and feeling of comfort.
It took me five minutes to clear the plate and I could happily have polished off another.
Even so, it wasn’t my favourite pizza in Naples. That was found at the magnificent Pizza 3.0, where the menu has been lovingly crafted by chef Ciro Cascella and people queue around the block for a taste.
I stood in line for 40 minutes, and it was more than worth it. Yet the truth is you don’t need to seek out celebrated restaurants to find good pizza in Naples.
The quality of competition is so high it’s hard to find a bad slice anywhere.
In fact, it’s hard to find bad food anywhere in the city — something I discovered as I was shown around some lesser-known spots by food tour guide Stefano.
Of the delights he treated me to, my favourite was cuopo — a paper cone filled with fried salty goods, including aubergines, pizza dough and deep-fried balls of pasta called frittatini.
His tour was a culinary and historical whirlwind and more than worth a couple of hours of my time, particularly as it was included in my five-day Naples pass.
That pass also provided access to two of the area’s biggest attractions — the preserved ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, both destroyed in 79AD by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
The medieval fortress stands on top of Vomero Hill, providing panoramic views.
Wandering through the homes and buildings left by the Roman inhabitants is like taking a trip back in time. Street food stalls, bathhouses and even ancient brothels provide a window into what life would have been like all those years ago.
Newer sights are also included in the Naples pass, as well as public transport, with towering St Elmo’s Castle an unsung hero in the city’s sightseeing canon.
The medieval fortress stands on top of Vomero Hill, providing panoramic views.
From there, the city looks like it’s made of children’s building blocks, with colourful cubes stacked up, before giving way to the bay’s shimmering blue water.
They were views I’d become accustomed to through my choice of accommodation.
Glorious orange light
From the top floor of the NH Napoli Panorama, Italy’s tallest hotel, the vistas are stunning. The towering building provides the perfect vantage point to gaze down at locals weaving in and out of the streets, or simply stare at the sea.
I left the curtains open at night and allowed the sunrise to wake me in the morning with its glorious orange light.
The bed was soft as a cloud, while the breakfast featured delicate Italian pastries, as well as heartier cooked options.
Towards the higher end of the price scale is the Britannique, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton. It’s perched on a twisting street that winds behind the affluent Chiaia neighbourhood and has balconies and giant windows ideal for staring at Naples’ kaleidoscope of colours.
The Niq Bar is also there — housed entirely in glass next to a roof terrace, creating an atmospheric backdrop.
It rooms are worth paying a little more for. The giant marshmallow of a bed in front of the enormous pane of glass makes sightseeing possible before you’ve even thought about getting up.
Once out of bed, however, you can head upstairs to the breakfast room, with yet more beautiful views.
The Niq Bar is also there — housed entirely in glass next to a roof terrace, creating an atmospheric backdrop.
Its signature cocktail is made with a wonderfully fruity passionfruit rum and served in a miniature novelty bathtub, complete with a working shower.
It’s hard to believe such a magnificent place not only exists but is just two hours from the UK. And with flights from less than £20 with Wizz Air, it’s difficult to find a reason not to go back.
Since getting home, I’ve had that Maradona song playing over and over in my head, only with a slight twist.
Instead of my heart pounding due to seeing Maradona, it’s racing because I’ve seen Naples – and I love it.
GO NAPLES
GETTING THERE: Wizz Air has flights from Gatwick to Naples from £19.91 one way year-round and deals now for April and May from £122 return. See wizzair.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the NH Napoli Panorama are from £125 per night in May. See nh-hotels.com. Rooms at the Britannique Naples Curio Collection by Hilton are from £207 a night in May. See thebritannique.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Naples Pass from Get Your Guide including Pompeii and Herculaneum, food tour, open bus tour and attractions from £57.75pp. See getyourguide.co.uk