Inside the UK’s no.1 seaside town that’s ‘the greatest holiday spot the country has to offer’
THE friendly locals of Northumberland all had the same response when I told them I was writing about their county as a UK holiday destination: “Just don’t be too nice, everyone will want to come.”
I made no promises, because Northumberland is probably the greatest holiday spot the UK has to offer.
Its beaches stretch on for miles, with hardly even so much as a pebble breaking up the soft golden sand, while some of these long expanses of shoreline sit before giant castles that are still every bit as impressive now as they were when they were first constructed hundreds of years ago.
And yet, it remains peaceful during the summer months, and the locals are keen to keep it that way, with overcrowded seaside spots like Devon, Cornwall and other south coast favourites absorbing the majority of Brits who decide to eschew trips abroad.
More fool them because, while they’re fighting for space on the seafront, those in the north are stretching out and enjoying the peace and quiet on some of the best beaches the UK has to offer, like that at Bamburgh, a wonderful sandy bay with clear waters lapping at its shores.
I’m not the only one to have noticed though – despite the lack of crowds, it’s been named the best seaside town in the UK by consumer experts Which? for the last three years in a row.
Visitors can take a dip in the fresh North Sea if they’re feeling bold, however I decided to simply dig my toes into the soft sand and take in the sights of Bamburgh Castle, which stands imposingly atop a hill behind the beach, creating a real life work of art.
Making the scene even more idyllic is the small snack van, Bait at Bamburgh, tucked away in a car park behind the dunes.
Its phenomenal crab crumpets are its signature dish, while local smoked Craster kippers are also on offer, providing beach-goers with delicious gourmet seafood treats plucked straight from the sea in front of them.
The same locally-sourced produce can be found in places like the Potted Lobster, a relaxed bistro-style restaurant, whose freshly-prepared meals have earned it a place in the Michelin guide on four separate occasions.
The Copper Kettle and Clock Tower tearooms serve similarly well-regarded fare. The former of the two describes itself as being “widely recognised as one of the finest Tea Rooms in the country” while the latter is part of the castle that draws people to Bamburgh from far and wide.
The huge fortress, recognisable from TV series The Last Kingdom and the most recent Indiana Jones film, The Dial of Destiny, dates back 1,400 years and even features in ballads written as long ago as 1270.
It’s impossible to not be impressed by its towering presence which provides a unique backdrop to the beach and encapsulates a lot about what makes the north east a spectacular holiday destination.
Inside, visitors can wander around the keep, the grounds, the King’s hall and other parts of the castle, which are still in excellent condition, while seasonal events are held throughout the year.
It’s also home to the Armstrong and Aviation Artefacts Museum, which shows off exhibits about Victorian industrialist, inventor and engineer William Armstrong and Armstrong Whitworth, the manufacturing company he founded.
Armstrong bought the castle in 1894 and the museum displays include engines, artillery and weaponry, as well as aviation artefacts from two world wars.
Armstrong isn’t the only person in Bamburgh to have their own museum however, with another dedicated to the town’s most famous resident, Grace Darling.
The Grace Darling RNLI museum teaches people about her life in the lighthouse overlooking the bay and discusses her heroic and selfless acts of bravery that saw her rescue shipwrecked sailors out at sea.
That same sea is still home to some adorable critters, especially during the summer, and they’re more than happy for you to sail out to pay them a visit.
Boat tours head out to the Farne Islands every day from Seahouses, a holiday town just a short distance down the coast from Bamburgh, and I joined the Serenity tour on its morning puffin spotting expedition – which has just been named Visit England’s best tourist experience of the year for 2024.
I spent two fascinating hours in the company of the colourful-beaked birds, while seal pups lay expectantly on the rocks around the isles waiting for their doting parents, who bobbed up and down in the water looking for food.
The puffins definitely stole the show however, with their distinctive irritated grumbling noises heard constantly, as they paddled their little feet as quickly as possible to get out the way of the boat that had dared to disturb their fishing.
Dolphins are also frequently spotted on the tours as well and, although they were shy when I visited, a small pod was spotted swimming alongside the very same boat just a week after my trip, meaning I now have no choice but to go back again to find them.
When I do return, I could do far worse than stay at one of Northumberland’s wonderful staycation offerings, like those found at Woodland Chase Glamping in Felton, whose Fieldhouse cabin was so endearing that it made it difficult to find the desire to leave and explore further afield.
The elaborate shed conversion has its own sauna, hot tub and viewing deck, staring out across acres of remarkable Northumbrian countryside, which by evening came alive with small bats, fluttering around in the dusk, and even a barn owl, who swooped past to greet me as I took a dip in the tub, which was warmed by a small log fire.
Another log burner could be found inside the cabin, along with all mod cons, including wifi, a kitchenette and a bathroom every bit as fancy as some I’ve found in 5* hotel suites.
The king-sized bed seemed similarly out of place among the wilderness, with its giant plush mattress far more comfortable than you ever could hope for while staying so close to the great outdoors.
Of course, no trip to the Northumbrian seaside would be complete without a chippy tea and Lewis’s in Seahouses was the pick of the bunch, serving whale-sized portions of cod and haddock, as tasty as those in any chip shop you’d find along the coast anywhere in the country.
This was followed by a trip to The Olde Ship Inn, a glorious old pub overlooking the harbour, decked out with maritime memoribilia.
So, apologies to the people of Northumberland, but the rest of the country needs to know exactly what they’re missing out on.
A visit to Bamburgh and Seahouses, along with a stay at Woodland Chase is the perfect place for them to start.
STAYING THERE:
Woodland Chase Glamping near Swarland, Northumberland has cabins sleeping two (dog welcome too) from £160per night, with a minimum three-night stay. To book, go to towander.co.uk
To book a puffin and seal-watching tour, head to Serenity Farne Island Boat Tours.