Glen Etive 27-30 October 2023
In her quest for Munro compleation Dolly with Dave M, Derek and Brian Y headed to Glen Etive over the weekend of the 27th to the 30th of October. The weather forecast had been indecisive but generally indicated unsettled, showery, windy and possibly wintry weather. However, this did not dampen… Continue reading
In her quest for Munro compleation Dolly with Dave M, Derek and Brian Y headed to Glen Etive over the weekend of the 27th to the 30th of October. The weather forecast had been indecisive but generally indicated unsettled, showery, windy and possibly wintry weather. However, this did not dampen the enthusiasm of the compact team and in Brian's car drove up in busy traffic conditions to their weekend base at Glencoe Mountain Resort.
The whole weekend introduced Brian and Derek, relative newcomers to the Munro's, to many new elements of cultural, logistical and physical experience. How much gear does one need for a weekend away? How does one fit it all in one car with four people? How does one cook microwave porridge with only a kettle in the room?
Route 74 Truckstop was the first cultural experience. A staple break point at Lesmahagow on the drive to the Highlands with the six wheeler all day breakfast being a poular menu choice and a convenient Tesco fuel station as you leave. The restaurant is at the moment open only until 9pm. Next was the Drovers Inn at Inverarnan which was pleasantly atmospheric and all tastefully decked out for Halloween.
We arrived at the accommodation at 5pm and settled in quickly into our Microlodge Plus. Our 6 berth cabin was equipped with a heater, kettle and several electric sockets. Perfectly adequate for four people for 3 nights but any more of us would have been a squeeze. Camping type food was to suffice for two nights and for breakfasts which was fine. In better weather it would be great to use the picnic table outside. Mobile phone signal quality was inconsistent but Brian was able to connect to a wifi source so we were able to watch the World Cup Rugby in the evenings.
There was a good nights sleep for some and an early wake up for all before driving to the Coileitir car parking area in Glen Etive before sunrise. Recent rain had made the ground quite wet so there were very few other people, campervans and wild campers about. We started walking at 8am. An easterly wind was expected to increase so our 3 Munro target was routed initially to Beinn nan Aighenan to the south then Glas Bheinn Mhor to the east before finishing at the highest, Ben Starav to the west. A crucifix pattern of outlying Munros centred on Bealachan Lochain Ghaineamhaich meant that we were doubling back to centre after achieving each summit.
What we could see of the scenery was fantastic in its autumn colours but despite its beauty the route was a serious baptism of fire for Derek and Brian covering an excess of 13 miles and 2000m of ascent. Gusting wind and frequent showers with occasional poor visibility combined to make an arduous day for everyone. After completing two summits and returning to the centre point for the third time Brian was feeling the effects of altitude gain and decided to head back down to the car.
Dolly, Derek and Dave continued to the final summit of Ben Starav. The cloud was breaking up but the wind was not easing. Derek's knees, he explained, were suffering with similar symptoms. We continued north over the summit as we had decided earlier to descend via the northern ridge on a track almost directly to the finish point. This was a quicker route but involved a short boulder field at the top and steeper slopes later in the descent. A lot of fun with tired legs.
We made it back to the car at 7pm. Sunset had been at almost 6:15pm so the light was fading but head torches were not needed. Brian whisked us back to the lodge where once more we sorted our gear for the next day. The drying rooms and showers were most welcome. As was dinner, cider, brufen, wine and the Rugby World Cup Final.
Early to bed, another good night's sleep for some and another early wake up on Sunday for all before driving down the glen to the same start point as the day before. Derek and Brian decided to take it easier and walk at low level in the local area while Dolly and Dave made a 10 mile circuit with 2 more Munros and 1400m of ascent.
The weather today was rain, mist and strong wind. It was a degree or two cooler than on Saturday. Many of the paths were waterlogged and there were many streams to cross so the route to the summits did not strictly adhere to the anticipated track. No problem though, uphill we went in a roughly clockwise pattern to pick off Meall nan Eun and lastly Stob Coir an Albannaich.
Dolly was just about able to stay on her feet when the wind was at it's strongest. The skies occasionally cleared and later in the day the rain lessened. Our descent from the final summit took a more direct line steeply down a rarely used path parallel to the north side of Eag an Uillt. The path was very difficult to follow exactly and was washed away in places. An ascent by this route would be very difficult. The deer fence along the top edge of the forest on the final part of the descent had an easily negotiable crossing point although the forest itself was tough going. A gate at the bottom edge put us immediately onto the short, final track to the bridge and the car at Coileitir.
Derek and Brian had treated themselves to a gentler day and after their less arduous walk had taken a drive back up the glen to enjoy a coffee at the Kings House. Thankfully they were waiting at the car park when we returned at just before 4pm. The clocks had changed overnight so sunset today would be an hour earlier than the day before.
The drying rooms and showers at the Glencoe Mountain Resort were once again put into good use. For our final evening we had decided to head over to the Kings House for a bar meal. Brian kindly offered to drive to save us the half-hour walk each way in the dark. The bar was quiet and by 8pm was almost empty. We enjoyed our meal and were back in our cosy lodge before 9.
Another good night's sleep, for some, and a lie in on Monday morning. We cleared out of our lodge and repacked the car before breakfast was taken at the resort cafe which opens at 8am. The full breakfast, vegetarian or otherwise were well worth having and set us up nicely for the journey home.
This was a very succesful trip with credit to Dolly for achieving all five of her target Munro's. The distances and altitude gain from sea level to the summits was in itself a demanding exercise and the conditions did nothing to help. For Derek and Brian especially the weekend gave much valuable experience in the hills including the logistics and other factors that can have an influence over a trip to the Highlands. All in all it was a hard but very enjoyable weekend. Great company, objectives achieved and an easily accessible new base found at the Glencoe resort. Thanks very much to everyone and especially to Brian for doing all of the driving. Nice one!
