Restaurant review: Masala House in East Greenbush

I can't imagine anyone rushing over to East Greenbush for a new curry house. Still, the opening of Masala House in the former IHOP on Columbia Turnpike has those of us on the Rensselaer side of the Hudson weeping into our butter chapatis.

Gratitude for its existence comes with tolerance for its fledgling quirks like the polite but inexplicably slow service when dining in, the desperately loose cucumber-yogurt raita and sweet rice pudding kheer, or crisp samosas, pakora and sheesh kebab all fried to a common dark brown so we must explore their shapes and guess contents.