Sometimes, only cake will do

Someone asks you to bring a dessert to a block party, birthday or barbecue. Or you're heading out of town for a weekend getaway. Or you just need something to keep all the kids happy on a Saturday night. There's really only one answer and it's a thing everyone wants to eat: sheet cake.

Think of these as cakes that are as easy to make as a boxed mix but exponentially better tasting. First, a classic chocolate number that will end your search for the perfect chocolate cake. It's moist and cocoa-y enough to win over the adults but not turn off the kids. Next, a buttermilk cake packed with so much lemon your cheeks will twinge: zest in the cake, a lemon syrup to soak into the crumb and add moistness, and a final tart glaze for creaminess. Then there's my favorite, an old-fashioned vanilla cake with shockingly vibrant pink icing. The color is what my grandmother always stirred into canned frosting to make it feel special, so I can't omit it. Finally, a candy bar slab that hits all the right nostalgic buttons: a fluffy white cake, drowned in butterscotch sauce, showered in chopped toffee or Butterfinger candy bars. All the cakes are served in their pans (you could use disposable foil ones for zero cleanup) and get iced only on the top — no pesky edges to deal with.

Present them with candles for the big blow-out, then set them on a card table for people to devour. If you have leftovers, they're great for the kind of lazy snacking when the pork shoulder is on its sixth hour of cooking on the smoker or you just woke up from a nap and want a little something to perk you back up. There's no one setting for these cakes, but they're always there when you need them.

LEMON BUTTERMILK SHEET CAKE

Serves 12 to 16

This cake, inspired by the great baker Maida Heatter's recipe, gets hits of lemon three times: zest and juice in the...