Schiaparelli Just Took Its Jewelry Game to a New Level
Since taking on the role as creative director of heritage couture house Schiaparelli in 2019, designer Daniel Roseberry has reignited the brand’s legacy of jewelry innovation and craftsmanship with collection after collection filled with surreal costume jewelry and hardware, which has been affixed to the brand’s footwear equally as it has its accessories.
For Schiaparelli’s haute couture fall winter ’23 collection, which debuted Monday at Paris Fashion Week’s couture season, Roseberry took the jewelry offering even further. Referencing legendary sculptor and jewelry designer Claude Lalanne, Roseberry made the brand’s recognizable brass hardware even bigger and bolder, incorporating organic subject matter such as large leaves, apples, flowers, palm fronds and doves (not unlike the infamously large one that Lady Gaga wore from the brand when she performed at President Biden’s inauguration in 2021), while also keeping his signature body part sculptures (ears, eyes and hands — though the infamous Schiaparelli gold toe boots did not walk the runway).
The fall winter ’23 couture collection, which showed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week’s couture season, had a lot to do with organic matter as well as the concepts of exploration and the act of impromptu dressing, as Roseberry explained in the collection show notes.
Most of the collection’s jewelry was done in its signature sculpted brass, but one look took the idea of wooden beads to a new level, using the material to affix two wooden hands across the front of the model’s body for a new take on the statement necklace (and accompanied by a shaggy woolen coat worn on the head of Schiaparelli muse and model Maggie Maurer, no less).
While a closer look is needed, footwear from the collection pointed to more evidence that the peep toe will soon make a return. The silhouette was joined by what appeared to be a series of heels outfitted with sequined toes, not unlike Schiaparelli’s sculpted toe boots from previous seasons.