The Insider’s Guide to Southwestern Utah
Southwestern Utah is as sparse in population as it is overwrought with natural wonder. During a full-day hike through southwestern Utah, you can shimmy your way through the longest slot canyons on earth, gaze up at scale-defying crimson rock formations of covered in ancient petroglyphs, and not pass another living human the entire time. For rugged adventurers traversing across America, the appeal is obvious. For travelers in search of five-star luxury, Michelin-caliber food, or family and dog-friendly destinations, however, it might not seem as seductive.
In reality, you can enjoy access to all that excess, too. You just need to know where to look—and how to plan. It’s surprisingly easy to get to southwest Utah from major American west urban hubs, including Las Vegas and Salt Lake City. And rental cars therein are entirely reasonable relative to their coastal counterparts. For example, you could procure a mid-sized sedan or SUV in one of the aforementioned hubs and return it in the other at a rate of around $500 per week, with plenty of time for your entire road trip itinerary.
What you experience along the way will take your breath away, both indoors and out. In fact, when done right, a southwestern Utah road trip to ought to be among the most memorable vacations of your life. What are you waiting for? Follow this comprehensive insider’s guide and take a hike.
The Ultimate Utah Travel Guide
Where To Stay
Amangiri
- 1 Kayenta Rd, Canyon Point, UT 84741
You can’t mention luxury in this part of the world without pointing to this fabled five-star hotel. Tucked seamlessly betwixt high desert canyons—past several security gates—it’s a magnet for A-listers who are drawn to its unparalleled exclusivity. The primary lodge is a stark, concrete take on vernacularism holding impeccable sight lines, suites with private plunge pools and one of the most serene spas in the lower 48. Since 2020, it has been joined by a separate series of standalone tented villas on a campground of sorts, known as Camp Sarika. They bring a safari sort of glamping aesthetic—along with an additional dining venue—to the sprawling 900-acre property on the Colorado Plateau. Whichever accommodation you end up in, expect an escape like no other.
The resort will also organize excursions for guests, including extravagant trips to the Grand Canyon (the South or North Rim) and Lake Powell. Another option is a three slot-canyon tour, which is led by a Navajo guide and includes stops at Upper Antelope Canyon, Rattlesnake Canyon and Owl Canyon. Expect to pay a premium for the hotel: rooms start at $4,000 a night.
Ofland
- 2020 UT-12, Escalante, UT 84726
Formerly known as Yonder, this collection of well-appointed cabins has rebranded as a premier springboard into the prime backcountry that surrounds it. It’s meant to appeal to travelers who don’t intend to spend all day sitting still on property, but appreciate a modicum of amenities whenever they return. Those flourishes include a swimming pool and hot tub, outdoor showers in guest rooms, and a market featuring health-conscious grab n’ go items and an assortment of Utah-sourced sundries. There’s also a “drive-thru” movie theater, where classic films are viewed from vintage autos that have been retired and now remain fixed in place. That place also happens to be at the outskirts of Escalante, one of southwestern Utah’s hippest enclaves.
It affords easy access to the namesake Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, comprising over 1.87 million acres of public land. At Ofland, you’re gifted it all as your backyard, in return for rates as low as $150 a night. It’s also less than 10 minutes from Cedar Breaks National Monument.
Best Friends Roadhouse and Mercantile
- 30 N 300 W, Kanab, UT 84741
If you’re traveling with the family dog in tow, then you won’t want to miss a stopover at what might be the most dog-friendly hotel in the nation. It was launched five years ago in the heart of Kanab by the nearby animal sanctuary of the same name—a leading force in the no-kill movement. A total of 30 standard guestrooms (and 10 additional suites) hold delightfully adorable sleeping nooks for your four-legged tagalongs. And all fabrics are designed to withstand their worst behavior. Across the well-manicured property are dedicated petwashing stations, sitting and walking services by appointment, and a vegan-focused market adjoining the lobby. Book your stay for as little as $150 per night.
Watchman Villas
- 1101 Zion Park Blvd, Springdale, UT 84767
Springdale, Utah is the southern gateway to Zion National Park—among the top five most visited national parks in the U.S. As such, it’s one of the few parts of the southern Utah region that can be overrun with tourists, especially during the summer months. Hotel rooms here aren’t just crowded, they’re also kind of basic (think Hampton Inn). But if you don’t mind doing away with the trappings of traditional lodging, such as a lobby with a front desk or an attached eatery, Watchman Villas is an ideal alternative that acts more like your own apartment. Rooms come equipped with full kitchens, backyards with balcony views, and free laundry. Even though you’re conveniently located within a stone’s throw of the Utah national park entrance, you’ll feel removed from the masses—right up until you have to queue in your vehicle to get within Zion’s boundaries. Attempt that trek at the break of dawn if you want to minimize the madness.
What To Do
Hike Slot Canyons
Slot canyons are a unique style of gorge characterized by a narrow notching into the earth. Some can plumb hundreds of feet in depth while retaining a width equal to that of your arm span. Hiking through them provides an all-encompassing solace, akin to what you might feel in some grandiose cathedral. And because they tend to form most frequently through the sort of soft sandstone found across all of southwestern Utah, the region is home to the world’s highest concentration of these striking formations. You could pick from dozens of examples with names no less descriptive than Peekaboo, Spooky and Fat Man’s Misery and enter them usually within a mile or so of the nearest trailhead. But because of their confined structure, slot canyons pose a deadly risk in the form of flash flooding, so it’s best to enlist the help of a guide. The folks at Roam Outdoor Adventure Company are among the best in the business. Embarking from their outpost in Escalante, they’ll safely spirit you through a trio of exceedingly narrow crevasses on a five-hour hike that costs $125 per person.
Horseback riding through Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon offers a landscape like no other on Earth. It contains an enormous amphitheater (12 miles long, 3 miles wide and 800 feet deep) that is stuffed with concentric sandstone spires known as hoodoos. Most of the visitors to this Utah national park simply look down on them all from above. But with Canyon Trail Rides, you can get a unique viewpoint and mosey your way through the otherworldly formations—on the back of a trusty steed. Twice a day from April through October, the outfitter leads guests on horseback rides down the canyon, and back up. They typically start at Sunrise Point and last around two hours (the loop trail is more like three hours), and can be booked in advance for $85 per person.
E-Bike Your Way Through the National Parks
Utah is home to what its tourism board refers to as “The Mighty Five” National Parks. They’re not overselling it; these scenic destinations are uncompromising in their respective majesty. And three of those five—Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef National Parks—are located within the southwestern part of the state. Since Zion is the most accessible to the masses (about a 2.5-hour drive from the Las Vegas airport in Nevada) it attracts the largest crowds; it’s also home to major sites like Angels Landing and the Emerald Pools. So if you’re looking for remoteness, steer towards Capitol Reef. And if you’re looking for rugged, opt for the millions of acres worth of national forest and Bureau of Land Management land dominating the area. But if you insist on exploring Zion, you can still do so while avoiding virtually all of the other five million annual visitors joining you there—all you need is an E-bike, which you can reserve at Zion Adventures in Springdale for as little as $95 for one day. From March through November, the park’s Scenic Drive is closed off to vehicular traffic and accessed by shuttle bus, which operates between the hours of 6 a.m. and 9 p.m. Bypass it all on bicycle and you’ll stay away from the crowds, travel at your own pace, and have the entirety of the park to yourself during dawn and dusk hours. There’s nothing quite like the serenity of wheeling your way through this colorful canyon in twilight.
Helicopter Tour
Another way to circumvent the national park hordes is by riding high in the sky above them all. The experience is not nearly as expensive as you might suspect; a panoramic flight with Zion Helicopters can be booked for as low as $99 per person. It whisks its way up 15 miles of the Virgin River valley to reveal unfettered vistas of sheer red rock walls, a thousand feet in length. Before turning back to the helipad, you’ll also catch a glimpse of Crater Hill Volcano, a mile-high mound which last erupted over 120,000 years ago.
Where to Eat and Drink
Sego Restaurant
- 190 N 300 W, Kanab, UT 84741
Kanab’s year-round population of 5,131 just barely eclipses its elevation, so you probably wouldn’t assume this quaint village, known as a base camp for travel in the region, to hold onto any sort of cosmopolitan culinary ambitions. Chef Shon Foster is here to expose the folly of those assumptions with Sego, his restaurant situated on the southern border of Utah and Arizona. His New American cuisine is mindfully sourced and artfully rendered, with all the sophistication befitting a city address. Seared duck is plated with baby bok choy and housemade sambal; foraged mushrooms are dressed in sage and presented alongside hen eggs and espresso cheddar. All of it is paired with world-class wine or elevated cocktail preparations. Uncover it all, hidden just off the lobby of the charming Canyons Boutique Hotel.
Aragosta Restaurant
- 1386 E 100 S, St. George, UT 84790
Inspired by the fine-dining traditions of Europe, this elevated establishment has long been the talk of the town. Chef and owner Imi Kun set up shop here almost 17 years ago, when St. George was wanting for meals more aligned with big city life. He delivered, and continues to provide a menu studded with entries such as escargot, pâté of foie gras and lobster bisque, all worthy of a Parisian bistro. Only suddenly, it doesn’t seem so out of place, as the community finds itself the hub of the region. Aragosta remains its culinary crown jewel.
Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm
- 20 UT-12, Boulder, UT 84716
A cozy roadside eatery along a remote stretch of Scenic Byway 12, it’s all too easy to drive past Hell’s Backbone Grill and Farm without even noticing the magic cooking up inside. Do not make that mistake. For 25 years now, chef/owners Jen Castle and Blake Spalding have used this space to churn out a cornucopia of organic, farm-raised provisions, with a focus on Western range and southwestern flavors. They do so with such aplomb that they became the first restaurant in the state to be named a James Beard Award semifinalist in 2022—a feat they repeated just a year later. You can come for the beloved biscuits, enchiladas, posole or garden-fresh salads. But it’s the gracious hospitality that will have you coming back for more. Indeed, some regulars detour hundreds of miles out of their way in service of a return.
Magnolia’s Kitchen
- 280 E Main St, Escalante, UT 84726
This fun family-run breakfast and lunch spot is operated out of an iconic turquoise bus, beside Main Street in “downtown” Escalante. What’s rolling out of the kitchen is delightful, down-home Americana. Omelets and waffles in the morning; chili cheese dogs and crispy pork sandwiches through the afternoon hours. All of it served with a smile, and most of it dressed under a flavorful assortment of house-made sauces, which are available for purchase to take with you further down the road.