Embrace the smoke, and other tips for grilling vegetables at a Labor Day barbecue

Barbecue guru Steven Raichlen is best known for grilled meat. But his book “How to Grill Vegetables” has also become a go-to guide. He recommends first considering the structure of the vegetable, and then select the appropriate method. As a rule, high-moisture vegetables like zucchini, peppers and mushrooms are best served by direct grilling. That means cooking over a high-heat fire with the lid open at 500 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Indirect grilling is better for denser vegetables like turnips, cauliflower or leeks. There, you cook next to the fire with the lid closed at 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. He says closing the lid presents another opportunity to inject the vegetables with smoky flavor. Add wood chips for incredibly complex flavors.