New Orleans has faced tragedy again and again and always seems to bounce back, maintaining its reputation for jazz and joyfulness. The first parade of Mardi Gras came less than a week after 14 people were killed by a rampaging driver. Yet many people who live here say they are tired of being resilient, even if it’s their only option since their livelihoods depend on tourism. They hope the traditional parades this year are seen as defiance – and trying to spark change that the city needs.