Knowing how to slice, cook your onions makes big difference

Once, when I knew in advance that I couldn't be there for one of her upcoming appearances, I invited a pal of mine — a culinary professional — to try out for the gig.

"Why not?" I asked.

"Because she sliced the onions the wrong way," Julia replied.

The more roughly an onion is treated — such as when it is chopped with a dull knife or pulsed in a food processor — the more fumes it gives off.

Modeled on welder's goggles, these babies prevent the onion's fumes from reaching your eyes.

[...] we come to how to cook an onion, which affects not just the flavor of the onion, but of the whole dish.

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 1/2-pound ball purchased pizza dough, room temperature

Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the skillet.

In a small bowl, stir together the creme fraiche, egg yolk, nutmeg and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

Spread a third of the creme fraiche mixture over the piece of dough on the baking sheet, then top with a third of the onions and bacon.

Nutrition information per half pizza: 640 calories; 310 calories from fat (48 percent of total calories); 35 g fat (16 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 120 mg cholesterol; 1260 mg sodium; 60 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 17 g protein.