Restaurant review: Ama Cocina in Albany

In the hands of General Manager Jessica Evans, poached from New World Bistro Bar in Albany, the space has been wrenched into eclectic shape with steel girders, Dumpster-dive finds, folkloric dancing-skull murals and hand-painted Mexican floor tiles.

[...] Ama Cocina seems to be driven by an F-word:

Tricked out in diamond-plate metal, exposed ceiling ducts, hand-sawn wood panels and a food truck-style window embedded in a wall (actually from a 1960s-era passenger bus), this split-level, mixed-media vision spilled directly from Evans' mind.

Tacos (two for $7) come in a half-dozen palate-inspiring flavors; think braised peach pork with "cactus crunch," fried chicken liver with bacon jam, and shredded smoked chicken with mole, pickled tomatillo and fun, crisped black beans.

A sweet version ($10) mixes up an apple-jicama-cider reduction; the Savory ($11) pairs Valdéon, a Spanish blue cheese, with hot sauce and peppers.

A sugary carapace cracks over worryingly mushy avocado fries, but crunchy kale sprouts ($7) are addictive little nubs tossed in preserved lime, balsamic, pumpkin seeds and salty cotija.

Or just channel your inner hipster with the "Pancho and Lefty" ($7), a sweetened cold brew tequila slow-dripped through coffee grounds and served over a giant ice cube.

Evans set the tone with her feisty, industrial space, the tequila list is worthy of a tasting room, and Frese delivers modern Mexican fusion from the kitchen.