Greens Restaurant, S.F.: Vegetarian spot's creative cocktails

A 35-year-old vegetarian restaurant owned by the San Francisco Zen Center does not sound like the kind of place to head to for a round of cocktails.

Though cocktails are offered through the week, on Friday to Sunday evenings the restaurant has what it calls Arts & Crafts, when its cafe-style counter at the entrance is converted into a makeshift bar.

There are a handful of bar seats; otherwise you may be able to request a seat around a few sculptural burl pieces near the entrance of the dining room, or at a cafe table tucked behind them.

Airy and bright; the view and cocktails offset a slightly churchy feel created by blond wood paneling.

Almost any of the first courses all make excellent bites, including fat spears of mesquite-grilled Zuckerman's Farm asparagus ($12.50) with greens and Andante Dairy goat cheese in a lemon vinaigrette.