Enjoyable reds for the winter that wasn't

There's a Rhone-minded leaning in this grab bag of California reds, but that's more a question of the best strategy for finding a hearty wine for the table in this, the tail end of our bizarro winter.

2012 La Clarine Farm Sumu Kaw Sierra Foothills Syrah ($25, 14.2%): Hank Beckmeyer's latest from this high-elevation volcanic site is a bit heftier this year, more leaning to mellow blackberry flavors and a bigger frame that's just right for winter.

Cracked black pepper meshes with the bright mineral bite indicative of the coast, subtle blue fruit flavors and a licorice-root spice.

2011 Leo Steen Calpella Mendocino County Red ($18, 12.9%): Leo Hansen's skill with Chenin Blanc has earned him fans, and add to that this effort from the Testa vineyard, old organically farmed Carignane and Petite Sirah in a hamlet north of Ukiah.