Whites of Central Europe ideal wines for winter

If ever there was time for white Hermitage, it would be near a roaring fire.

(Again, balmy coastal folk, work with me here.) If your winter tradition is of the fondue sort, the mineral-laced white wines of the Alps, and their cousins from elsewhere, are in order.

Istria's version of Malvasia has deep local roots, and there are grapes like Vitovska and Ribolla Gialla that have made their home near that northern notch of the Adriatic.

What they share is a bridge between that lean mineral cut of the mountains and the richness and exoticism of ripe, fleshy grapes like Roussanne.

Made from Vitovska, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio, it is amber-hued, exotic and intense: full of musk, passion fruit, gunflint and marzipan, with a tea-like tannic aspect.

Fermented on skins for 30 days, this version of Ribolla is as user-friendly as orange wine gets: the pronounced acidity and wet-rock mineral aspect of Ribolla, plus the beautiful aromas of a Turkish sundry shop: dried apricots, sesame seeds, a cress-like minty side.

Malvasia Istriana, Istria's strain of this grape, shows less of a floral side and more tangy minerality: resin and honeycomb richness balance out melon, lime rind and orris root.

In dry form, their Furmint is sharp as a tack, with that pleasing woolen side: chive, apricot, flint and a refinement to the texture like a perfectly dried pear.