St. Soleil cheese for those who revere the robust

The slow fermentation produces more flavor and higher acidity; being stingy with rennet yields a more supple, spreadable texture.

The half-pound cheeses are nestled in individual wooden crates with a cellophane window - costly packaging designed to preserve humidity - then sent by air to the U.S.

The thin, flesh-colored rind is damp and wrinkled, the work of beneficial bacteria, cloaking a semisoft ivory interior.

Bodensee Butterkäse, a cow's milk cheese from Switzerland.